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2011年8月4日星期四
Replacement battery for a navman?
-dose anyone know where i could buy a replacement battery for a navman s150 as it wont hold any charge at allIt would be helpful to people if you gave them your location.
What can cause your truck to make a loud thumping noise every time you make a left turn or go over a bump?
-I have a 99 chevy tahoe and was recently in a car accident and had to have the front fender on the drivers side replaced ever since the accident ive been hearing a loud thumping like noise every time i make a left turn or go over a bump what could be causing this noise? Toke it to a repair shop they told me nothing was wrong with it my dad is the one that put the front fender on the truck. Any answers will be greatly appreciated.I would suggest that you return it to the shop that did the work and get them to fix the problem.
Check the shock absorbers.
Check the shock absorbers.
Why my car does not start?
-I had to use the jumper cables, so when i did this the car started, but when I shut down the engine and by the time i want to start the car again it wont start, its only in a matter of seconds, but when i use the jumper cables with another car that supplies power to me then the car starts right away..is it the battery? starter? alternator?it could be any of those three things. my car had the same prob a yr back, i changed the alternator, then the battery and that didn't help and so i had to bring it in and it was the crankshaft sensor! If its anything sensor related, its really hard for you to diagnose that, you need a sensor tester....
you can look here, hope help.
http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/
restart your car-go to auto zone or similar auto parts store-they can test your battery-alternator and its free!!(always good) they also have code reader there and can read codes-all you are out to find out problem is your time-then comes the money thing
try a new alternator
your battery is done get a new battery
you can look here, hope help.
http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/
restart your car-go to auto zone or similar auto parts store-they can test your battery-alternator and its free!!(always good) they also have code reader there and can read codes-all you are out to find out problem is your time-then comes the money thing
try a new alternator
your battery is done get a new battery
What do I do if my car has an oil leak?
-My car has been parked for a few days, and I just noticed the leak today. How much would it be to get this fixed, and what happens if I drive it while it has this problem? I have a 2000 Dodge Neon
Any help or info is greatly appreciated, thanks.Nobody can tell you what it will cost until the source of the leak is determined by checking over the motor. It won't hurt to drive it as long as you keep the oil level above the add mark on the dipstick. Check the engine in the morning before starting it to get the most accurate reading. Make an appointment to have the leak sourced and than have them give you an estimate for repair. Ask up front what they will charge for the diagnosis. It should be about 1/2 hours shop time which should be
well under $100. Keep calling until somebody gives you a reasonable charge for a diagnosis. By the way, if you recently had an oil change, the oil on the ground could just be oil that hung up on the frame after the oil change, in which case it would stop dripping in a few days. If the repair estimate is more than you can afford, you can do what many do, just keep checking the oil and adding as needed. Not the best for the environment, but you can only do what you can afford. Good luck.
Any help or info is greatly appreciated, thanks.Nobody can tell you what it will cost until the source of the leak is determined by checking over the motor. It won't hurt to drive it as long as you keep the oil level above the add mark on the dipstick. Check the engine in the morning before starting it to get the most accurate reading. Make an appointment to have the leak sourced and than have them give you an estimate for repair. Ask up front what they will charge for the diagnosis. It should be about 1/2 hours shop time which should be
well under $100. Keep calling until somebody gives you a reasonable charge for a diagnosis. By the way, if you recently had an oil change, the oil on the ground could just be oil that hung up on the frame after the oil change, in which case it would stop dripping in a few days. If the repair estimate is more than you can afford, you can do what many do, just keep checking the oil and adding as needed. Not the best for the environment, but you can only do what you can afford. Good luck.
Need vinyl roof material for my car!?
-HI i have a 2000 cadillac deville and want to replace the leather roof with a vinyl roof but i cant find vinyl material anywhere! Does anyone know where i can get some? and i dont want any of the vinyl carbon stuff! thank you!
Is my rear shock on my yz125 dirt bike blown?
-My shock drops down then gets really stiff. does that mean its blown? there is no shock oil or any fluids dripping down the shock, how do I fix this?
Hear a loud squeaking noise when stepping on the break what could that be?
-I have a 99 chevy tahoe and was recently in a car accident and had to have the front fender on the drivers side replaced. The accident happened at the beginning of may and it has just recently over the last month been making a loud squeaking noise when having to come to a stop quickly. My dad looked at the front break pads to see if that was the problem and it wasn't. When he toke the wheels off we discovered that the front passengers side cv joint had been leaking grease my dad thought that was what was causing the squeaking noise. Well we replaced the cv joint tonight and toke it for a test drive after wards at first it wasn't making the noise then the noise started again and it sounded it like it was coming from the drivers side. Does anyone know what could be causing this squeaking sound?
I splash my car in puddle and now my car makes noise like motor cycle taking off.?
-my car makes noise when I step on the accelerator
How can i get rid of scratches on a black car?
-KIDSSSSSS! I cant stand them and their troubled..selves no offenseIt depends on how deep they are. If you can't feel them with your finger nail, they can be buffed out by a good detailer. If you can you'll have to paint emgo to your dealer and theyll have an exact match paint for your car, its pretty small and doesnt have a ton of paint but for small areas just wash very well and then paint over the scratch
Sharpie?
Paint :D!
Sharpie?
Paint :D!
What Are The Advantages and Disadvantages of Nitrogen Air Filled Tires?
-Is ordinary air just as good, or does the nitrogen provide any benefit?After 30,000 miles on nitrogen, I'm prepared to say that there's one definite benefit: it leaks less than mere air. (My usual routine, checking the pressure with my own gauge, I used to do every week; now I seldom have to bother more than once a month.)
The other arguments - that it's supposedly kinder to the inside of the tire and that it improves stability - I can't really address.
There is, of course, the major disadvantage: it costs a few bucks, whereas air (if you own a compressor, as I do) is essentially free.Since air is already 70% Nitrogen there isn't much of an advantage
Hi
Nitrogen has larger molecules and does not leak out through the rubber.
nitrogen get spelling right or word rocket fuel - laughing gas NO'2
IT SOUNDS GOOD
The other arguments - that it's supposedly kinder to the inside of the tire and that it improves stability - I can't really address.
There is, of course, the major disadvantage: it costs a few bucks, whereas air (if you own a compressor, as I do) is essentially free.Since air is already 70% Nitrogen there isn't much of an advantage
Hi
Nitrogen has larger molecules and does not leak out through the rubber.
nitrogen get spelling right or word rocket fuel - laughing gas NO'2
IT SOUNDS GOOD
How do I know if I have limited slip axle differential or not?
-My 2002 Ford Explorer v8 4.6L 4x4 needs differential fluid changed now that it almost has 200,000 miles on it, but I checked the owners guide but it doesn't show me if i do or not, I'm not sure if I need limited slip fluid or not because i'm not sure what my truck is equipped with... I have recently bought it so I don't know much about Explorers. Thanks!fluid will not make both wheels spin. a quick and easy way to find out is go out to a gravel road, come to a complete stop, and then punch it. if theres a clean set of parallel lines on the road, then you have a limited slip but if one line has more gravel on it than the other then you more that likely have an open differential. also if you have a regular floor jack you could jack up the rear end up until the tires are off the ground and lightly hit the gas and check if both wheels spin.4x4 is not limited slip good luck on gas money
Is it a problem that a car pops out of first gear?
-I really want to buy this Nissan Xterra for my first car. I found one on Craigslist for a really good deal at $4400. It has really low miles and everything is great, except the guy said it pops out of first gear. Is this a big problem? The guy said he drives it all the time and he just starts in 2nd, and he also said to fix it it just needs "adjusting" but who the hell knows if hes telling the truth. For all I know it could need a total transmission rebuild. So, does it matter that it pops out of first gear, and how much would it cost to get it fixed? Thanks!It is either a broken gear tooth, a worn synchronizer, a failed first gear selector shaft detent spring, or gear selector shaft bushing(s). If it were the only transmission around, I would order parts and repair it, but it is likely cheaper to buy a used recycler transmission, then just swap it out. Go to RepairPal.com for your cost answer.IF THE SHIFT LEVER POPS OUT OF 1ST THATS NOT A BIG DEAL. SOUNDS LIKE A SHIFT LINKAGE ISSUE MAY RUN YOU A COUPLE HUNDRED BUCKS
walk a way
walk a way
What does an ignition condenser do?
-First, to understand what the capacitor (condensor) does in the ignition system, it is necessary to understand how an ignition system works. Current goes through the primary circuit in an ignition coil and then to some sort of switching system breaks the connection when a cylinder's spark plug is meant to fire. The magnetic field that's in the ignition coil collapses and induces a high voltage into the secondary circuit of the ignition system, causing an arc in the spark plug and then firing the cylinder.
The problem is that when the magnetic field collapses in the primary circuit, a short voltage spike is introduced to that circuit as well. The condensor/capacitor absorbs this voltage spike.
In modern cars, this capacitor is no longer necessary. A diode is used instead.
If no capacitor were attached to an older system which requires one, voltage (and thus current) can flow backwards into the battery causing an overcharge condition and/or short out the plates by arcing. In addition, the alternator diodes may fail.First, to understand what the capacitor (condensor) does in the ignition system, it is necessary to understand how an ignition system works. Current goes through the primary circuit in an ignition coil and then to some sort of switching system breaks the connection when a cylinder's spark plug is meant to fire. The magnetic field that's in the ignition coil collapses and induces a high voltage into the secondary circuit of the ignition system, causing an arc in the spark plug and then firing the cylinder.
The problem is that when the magnetic field collapses in the primary circuit, a short voltage spike is introduced to that circuit as well. The condensor/capacitor absorbs this voltage spike.
In modern cars, this capacitor is no longer necessary. A diode is used instead.
If no capacitor were attached to an older system which requires one, voltage (and thus current) can flow backwards into the battery causing an overcharge condition and/or short out the plates by arcing. In addition, the alternator diodes may fail.Hi lilian
Nay bro first paragraph is correct but the rest is not relevant to your question. he is trying to show how clever he is and not simply answering the question.
a condenser is an essential part of the old ignition system that used to be used when cars had points to produce a spark at the spark plugs. the condenser is also called a capacitor in electronic terms.
when they start to fail the engine will run erratically. it is an absorber when the voltage in the coil disappears when the points open.
hence the spark at the spark plugs. an engine will not run without one .
It is a capacitor which provides a path for current in the primary ignition coil when the contact breaker is opened. Inductors (coils) try to keep the same current flowing though themselves. By providing this path it keeps the primary voltage down to a level defined by the component values rather than have it try to arc across the contact breaker to maintain current flow.
An ignition condenser is no longer used in today's cars, the condenser was mainly used in cars from pre 1975. Here is a link showing how they work and how to troubleshoot them:
http://www.ehow.com/list_5988660_signs-i鈥?/a>
good luck......
the ignition condenser protects the points from burning out. The points are mechanical switches that act as the triggering units. i think herostart is ok, u can try it. google it
The problem is that when the magnetic field collapses in the primary circuit, a short voltage spike is introduced to that circuit as well. The condensor/capacitor absorbs this voltage spike.
In modern cars, this capacitor is no longer necessary. A diode is used instead.
If no capacitor were attached to an older system which requires one, voltage (and thus current) can flow backwards into the battery causing an overcharge condition and/or short out the plates by arcing. In addition, the alternator diodes may fail.First, to understand what the capacitor (condensor) does in the ignition system, it is necessary to understand how an ignition system works. Current goes through the primary circuit in an ignition coil and then to some sort of switching system breaks the connection when a cylinder's spark plug is meant to fire. The magnetic field that's in the ignition coil collapses and induces a high voltage into the secondary circuit of the ignition system, causing an arc in the spark plug and then firing the cylinder.
The problem is that when the magnetic field collapses in the primary circuit, a short voltage spike is introduced to that circuit as well. The condensor/capacitor absorbs this voltage spike.
In modern cars, this capacitor is no longer necessary. A diode is used instead.
If no capacitor were attached to an older system which requires one, voltage (and thus current) can flow backwards into the battery causing an overcharge condition and/or short out the plates by arcing. In addition, the alternator diodes may fail.Hi lilian
Nay bro first paragraph is correct but the rest is not relevant to your question. he is trying to show how clever he is and not simply answering the question.
a condenser is an essential part of the old ignition system that used to be used when cars had points to produce a spark at the spark plugs. the condenser is also called a capacitor in electronic terms.
when they start to fail the engine will run erratically. it is an absorber when the voltage in the coil disappears when the points open.
hence the spark at the spark plugs. an engine will not run without one .
It is a capacitor which provides a path for current in the primary ignition coil when the contact breaker is opened. Inductors (coils) try to keep the same current flowing though themselves. By providing this path it keeps the primary voltage down to a level defined by the component values rather than have it try to arc across the contact breaker to maintain current flow.
An ignition condenser is no longer used in today's cars, the condenser was mainly used in cars from pre 1975. Here is a link showing how they work and how to troubleshoot them:
http://www.ehow.com/list_5988660_signs-i鈥?/a>
good luck......
the ignition condenser protects the points from burning out. The points are mechanical switches that act as the triggering units. i think herostart is ok, u can try it. google it
Key wont turn ignition to start my car?
-i have a 95 lexus es 300 the other day i shut off my car while the car was still in drive then pulled out my key then put the car in park now the key has to be jamed to go in and will not turn the ignition what did i do and how can i fix itbony it could be caused by a wrong key or bad electronic ignition system are both issues for the dealer. Overall your shop will not be able to resolve this by the fact that they do not have the right computer to communicate with the car and the key code and an electronic ignition system.
Been told my vauxhall corsa has a problem with central module - what is that?
-Hi
the simple answer is take this to a vauxhall dealer, who will plug in the diagnostic tester and find the problem with this computer and then you will be advised what is wrong with it then you will have to decide if you are going to have it fixed.
you can ask for an estimate of the part and labour charges if this is an issue.Do you mean:
Ignition Module
Central locking module
Or the ECU or ECM (central computer module)
the simple answer is take this to a vauxhall dealer, who will plug in the diagnostic tester and find the problem with this computer and then you will be advised what is wrong with it then you will have to decide if you are going to have it fixed.
you can ask for an estimate of the part and labour charges if this is an issue.Do you mean:
Ignition Module
Central locking module
Or the ECU or ECM (central computer module)
How to repair bmw e92 bumper with scratches?
-IDK why you'd want to repair it with scratches but just use a sharp object to scratch it.depends on how deep they are. If they are just barely scratching the clear coat you can normally buff them out with a good polish and follow with a wax.
If they are deeper than will need to be filled with paint then clear coat. If they are really deep you will need primer>paint>clear coat> polish>wax.
If they are deeper than will need to be filled with paint then clear coat. If they are really deep you will need primer>paint>clear coat> polish>wax.
Do you think it is the fule pump or filter?
-I ran my car out of gas...ALMOST to the gas station. My bad, I know it was stupid to get that low, but it happened...
So i put 2 gallons in (walking with a can...) and when i went to start it up again (i put it in run, off 2-3 times before i tried starting it...) and it sounds like it is about to start, but doesn't...It was 98degrees yesterday, so yes, it was probably a SUPER horrible day to run it out of gas...do you presume I need a fule pump? Or a filter change? I called yesterday for estimates on what I thought was the problem and want to know what would be a good price for a fuel pump + labor or fuel pump + filter. I am not smart when it comes to mechanics, so I dont want to be taken for a dumb blonde (although the running out of gas is pretty stupid...)
What are your thoughs? Do you think dirt got in the lines? Easy fix? Or bad fix... it is a 2002 Saturn L200, low miles with a rebuilt engine. Other than rebuilding the engine, its been a perfect car.If you don't want the mechanics to think you're dumb, don't go into their shop and tell them what YOU think the problem is.
If you tell them you think it's the fuel pump, they WILL change the fuel pump even if that's not the problem.
i would change the fuel filter first. running out of gas dirt can get up into the filter and clog it up. if the pump is kicking on when you turn the key on then the pump is working. change the filter.
there's crude in the bottom of the tank, thats why they say, dont let your tank go too low, cause you'll get that crude into the fuel line and clog the fuel filter
If you ran it out of fuel you'll need to turn key on not start motor make sure your radio a/c and all is off. You should hear a noise for 3-5sec under your car . Might need someone else to get under to listen should sound like an electric motor humming or maybe buzzing if so your pump is fine for the moment you'll need to turn key off onoff on.....let the pump build pressure back up in the lines then try to start it may need alot of cranking just careful not to over heat the starter. If you still can't get it started get a stick sturdy stick and bang on the fuel tank not to hard while someone tries to start it if it starts this way you'll need a new pump roughly $400-$550 plus labor 5 hrs max
The newer cars computer system will need to be reset after running out of gas. The computer will continue to act funny until you do this, it is just the way the system is programmed. What you will need to do is unhook the red (positive) wire to the battery for fifteen minutes or so. This will drain the reserve power for the memory of the computer, and it will reboot in the re-learn mode when you hook it back up to restart it. This will clear the error in the unit that running out of fuel caused, and it should return to normal. I have had to do this to at least 20 vehicles that were run out of fuel, and it corrected the problem. If it still has problems after this procedure then it may require the fuel filter, it may have drawn debris into the system from the bottom of the tank. For reference keep in mind the fuel acts as a coolant for the pump so try not to let it get below a 1/4 tank, this will save you from having to replace the pump (very costly)
So i put 2 gallons in (walking with a can...) and when i went to start it up again (i put it in run, off 2-3 times before i tried starting it...) and it sounds like it is about to start, but doesn't...It was 98degrees yesterday, so yes, it was probably a SUPER horrible day to run it out of gas...do you presume I need a fule pump? Or a filter change? I called yesterday for estimates on what I thought was the problem and want to know what would be a good price for a fuel pump + labor or fuel pump + filter. I am not smart when it comes to mechanics, so I dont want to be taken for a dumb blonde (although the running out of gas is pretty stupid...)
What are your thoughs? Do you think dirt got in the lines? Easy fix? Or bad fix... it is a 2002 Saturn L200, low miles with a rebuilt engine. Other than rebuilding the engine, its been a perfect car.If you don't want the mechanics to think you're dumb, don't go into their shop and tell them what YOU think the problem is.
If you tell them you think it's the fuel pump, they WILL change the fuel pump even if that's not the problem.
i would change the fuel filter first. running out of gas dirt can get up into the filter and clog it up. if the pump is kicking on when you turn the key on then the pump is working. change the filter.
there's crude in the bottom of the tank, thats why they say, dont let your tank go too low, cause you'll get that crude into the fuel line and clog the fuel filter
If you ran it out of fuel you'll need to turn key on not start motor make sure your radio a/c and all is off. You should hear a noise for 3-5sec under your car . Might need someone else to get under to listen should sound like an electric motor humming or maybe buzzing if so your pump is fine for the moment you'll need to turn key off onoff on.....let the pump build pressure back up in the lines then try to start it may need alot of cranking just careful not to over heat the starter. If you still can't get it started get a stick sturdy stick and bang on the fuel tank not to hard while someone tries to start it if it starts this way you'll need a new pump roughly $400-$550 plus labor 5 hrs max
The newer cars computer system will need to be reset after running out of gas. The computer will continue to act funny until you do this, it is just the way the system is programmed. What you will need to do is unhook the red (positive) wire to the battery for fifteen minutes or so. This will drain the reserve power for the memory of the computer, and it will reboot in the re-learn mode when you hook it back up to restart it. This will clear the error in the unit that running out of fuel caused, and it should return to normal. I have had to do this to at least 20 vehicles that were run out of fuel, and it corrected the problem. If it still has problems after this procedure then it may require the fuel filter, it may have drawn debris into the system from the bottom of the tank. For reference keep in mind the fuel acts as a coolant for the pump so try not to let it get below a 1/4 tank, this will save you from having to replace the pump (very costly)
How do I fix the gas cap flap on my buick? it broke off & now just hangs about an inch below the hole?
-The flap on my gas cap has broken, not completely off but it doesn't go up where it should, it's hanging there slightly below the hole waaa!i don,t know for sure but i think you have to get to it from inside the trunk.
Tire Issues! Please Help! 10 pts.. Best Answer!! ?
-Okay so yesterday I got my wheel bearing replaced on my passenger side of my car and I got bolt joints on both sides replaced. The problem is, I still hear a high pitch squeaky noise coming from the passenger side. What could it possibly be? Could it be my brakes? I don't hear it when I stop, I hear it as I accelerate. But it reminds me as the noise brakes make when they go bad. Please Help! Should be worried. Im getting 4 new tires 2morrow btw, and an alignment. Will this help? And remember I already got bolt joints and a wheel bearing replaced.Get new car...your problem will be solved :)<<jst kidding>>Bad bearing can cause excessive brake wear and this includes the rotors. With out taking a look at them myself it could not be ruled out.
most likely its the brakes the pads tend to get rust in them and will squeak so have them check when your tires are done
Which car model? year?
do you mean Ball Joints?
most likely its the brakes the pads tend to get rust in them and will squeak so have them check when your tires are done
Which car model? year?
do you mean Ball Joints?
I can't get power to my '85 Jeep CJ7's ignition switch. No turnover at all. What should I check next?
-After sitting for a few months, I finally replaced the rear axel shaft on my '85 Jeep CJ7 Renegade. Before doing so I had lost the keys and repeatedly hot wired it to start. I had a new key made and re-attached the wires together. when i first tried to start it after putting the wheels back on, it made a grinding noise, if i remember right, and a buzzing noise. this was with the battery hooked up to a charger because it had died. I listened in the engine bay and under the jeep and the noise was certainly coming from the starter relay, so i replaced that. But now it makes zero noise. I replaced the ignition switch, checked the fuses, and check if the distributor had welded itself together from excessive hot wire attempts, it was not. I next decided to use a volt meter to check the wires. the 12v battery wire going to the ignition switch that i had used to hot wire with the starter wire had no current. I then found a live wire coming directly from the battery and scraped it against the starter wire, nothing happened. My starter relay has a thick red battery cable coming to it, and another from the relay to the starter, these are on the 2 large pegs on the sides. Their are also two smaller pegs on the front of the relay, one has a thin green wire coming off, the other has nothing. This is the way I found the origonal relay so that's the way I put it back on.
Does anybody know what things I should check next? Or what the problem might be?
Does anybody know what things I should check next? Or what the problem might be?
My 98 S-10 makes a grinding sound, but stops as soon as I apply the breaks.?
-It makes this noise whether I'm turning or going straight, it's a grinding, squeaking sound. When I apply the breaks, it immediately stops, but then starts again as soon as I lift off the break. My breaks work fine. This noise started off just every once in a while when I would first get on the road. Now it's there almost all the time. I was told it may be wheel/hub bearings.
Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what was it and how much did you spend on the repairs? Any input is greatly appreciated.could be that but your wheel bearing makes a helicopter sound when their bad. your brakes could be loose. you may need struts or shocks. they may have went out. or your trailing arm may be busted. trailing arm cost around $30 per arm if you get it in a store. loose brakes could be anywhere from $10 - $50. struts around $60 just have a mechanic check out he can tell you after taking a little peed under the car
i just replaced my right front hub/bearing on my 98 jimmy... it was making a grinding sound. jack up your wheel, remove the wheel, Then you can turn the hub by hand and check for play /loose bearing. pretty easy to replace but costs $100 for the hub assembly..
that,s my guess, the wheel bearing is making the noise.
Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what was it and how much did you spend on the repairs? Any input is greatly appreciated.could be that but your wheel bearing makes a helicopter sound when their bad. your brakes could be loose. you may need struts or shocks. they may have went out. or your trailing arm may be busted. trailing arm cost around $30 per arm if you get it in a store. loose brakes could be anywhere from $10 - $50. struts around $60 just have a mechanic check out he can tell you after taking a little peed under the car
i just replaced my right front hub/bearing on my 98 jimmy... it was making a grinding sound. jack up your wheel, remove the wheel, Then you can turn the hub by hand and check for play /loose bearing. pretty easy to replace but costs $100 for the hub assembly..
that,s my guess, the wheel bearing is making the noise.
My side window in my 96s10 ext cab is falling off, the 3 of the rivets are missing and handle is broke...?
-I have my windows tented and i was wondering can i find more riviets,and a new handle without having to buy another window? please help meThe rivets won't be a problem but the handle may require that you buy a new window to get the handle.
Most wrecking yards won't sell individual pieces like that handle.
Most wrecking yards won't sell individual pieces like that handle.
1 mechanic says my knock sensor's bad & needs to be replaced. Other says O2 sensor. Can one affect the other?
-This is for a '98 Subaru Outback.Here are the symptoms for both Knock Sensor and Oxygen Sensor as well as links below for information on how to test them:
Knock Sensor - Symptoms
Bad Gas Mileage
Hesitation / Jerking
Shaking / Vibrating
Check Engine Light
Noises From Engine
Detonation / Misfiring
Strong Exhaust Smells
Oxygen Sensor Symptoms
Rough Idle
Poor Fuel Economy
Increased Emissions
Engine Missing or Pinging
take it to the dealer ask them to give you a quote or estimate and then leave the place they will give you a diagnostic and you will just pay around 55 but dont authorize anything you will have to pay a million dollar to fix a car in a dealer just pay for the diagnosis
Knock Sensor - Symptoms
Bad Gas Mileage
Hesitation / Jerking
Shaking / Vibrating
Check Engine Light
Noises From Engine
Detonation / Misfiring
Strong Exhaust Smells
Oxygen Sensor Symptoms
Rough Idle
Poor Fuel Economy
Increased Emissions
Engine Missing or Pinging
take it to the dealer ask them to give you a quote or estimate and then leave the place they will give you a diagnostic and you will just pay around 55 but dont authorize anything you will have to pay a million dollar to fix a car in a dealer just pay for the diagnosis
How to remove a brake caliper?
-I have a 1984 B2000 truck. I have the tires off but need to replace the brake calipers or possably use a repair kit. I need to know how to get the caliper off. Is there bolts that I am not seeing or is it clamped on?? lol thanks for any help:)here's a great way on how to replace you brake caliper.
Pretty easy job. Take a look at the video below. Only two bolts and they may require either a socket or allen wrench to remove.
Typically there are two bolts that hold the caliper on, usually accessible from the back of the caliper and will require either a 6 sided bolt or an Allen head bolt to remove.
Pretty easy job. Take a look at the video below. Only two bolts and they may require either a socket or allen wrench to remove.
Typically there are two bolts that hold the caliper on, usually accessible from the back of the caliper and will require either a 6 sided bolt or an Allen head bolt to remove.
1 mechanic says my knock sensor's bad & needs to be replaced. Other says O2 sensor. Can one affect the other?
-This is for a '98 Subaru Outback.Here are the symptoms for both Knock Sensor and Oxygen Sensor as well as links below for information on how to test them:
Knock Sensor - Symptoms
Bad Gas Mileage
Hesitation / Jerking
Shaking / Vibrating
Check Engine Light
Noises From Engine
Detonation / Misfiring
Strong Exhaust Smells
Oxygen Sensor Symptoms
Rough Idle
Poor Fuel Economy
Increased Emissions
Engine Missing or Pinging
take it to the dealer ask them to give you a quote or estimate and then leave the place they will give you a diagnostic and you will just pay around 55 but dont authorize anything you will have to pay a million dollar to fix a car in a dealer just pay for the diagnosis
Knock Sensor - Symptoms
Bad Gas Mileage
Hesitation / Jerking
Shaking / Vibrating
Check Engine Light
Noises From Engine
Detonation / Misfiring
Strong Exhaust Smells
Oxygen Sensor Symptoms
Rough Idle
Poor Fuel Economy
Increased Emissions
Engine Missing or Pinging
take it to the dealer ask them to give you a quote or estimate and then leave the place they will give you a diagnostic and you will just pay around 55 but dont authorize anything you will have to pay a million dollar to fix a car in a dealer just pay for the diagnosis
Is there any way to repair my car's paint without a whole new paint job?
-I own a black acura, and it's paint is damaged. The previous owner left gaint swirlmarks and the occasional scratch, as well as rock chips on the hood (unfortunately, unavoidable...). I kept it outdoors in the hot arkansas sun, and the paint has also started oxidizing and cracking in certain areas, most smaller than a coin. Can i repair this damage, or pay someone (NOT MAACO) to fix the paint, without shelling out a lot of money for a new paint job?Depends on the damage. Is it massive? I mean is it everywhere around your car? If so, then you can bring your car to some place safe when you are assured that the paint won't get damaged.
If the paint is small you can go out and buy some touch up paint that is cheap. Just make sure to get the right color.
Don't waste your money.
If you plan to leave your car parked outside, the paint won't last very long no matter where you have it painted.
If the paint is small you can go out and buy some touch up paint that is cheap. Just make sure to get the right color.
Don't waste your money.
If you plan to leave your car parked outside, the paint won't last very long no matter where you have it painted.
How many mpg will i loose if i put 35x12.5x20 tires on my truck?
-Depends on the truck a small truck with a small motor will suffer bad a big motor not so badBallpark 3-4 mpg
Under body lights on car? Neon lights?
-My first question is, what are they specifically called? Second, are you allowed to have red under lights?( I live in Ohio). Third, where can I buy them?they are usually know as ground effects lights and you can buy them for just about anything with wheels, typically you have to go somewhere like a specialty store that sells them, here is a website that has hundreds of vehicle options for ground effects: http://www.andysautosport.com/ground_effects.html
and this is the Ohio state law website about vehicles: http://codes.ohio.gov/orc/4513
i looked through and read the laws and there are no laws stating that it is illegal to own or operate a vehicle with ground lighting. the only restrictions are if the light is harmful to other drivers or is in excess of 300 candle watt power and hits the ground more than 75 feet away.
they are called underglow lights and it's definitely illegal to drive with them in ohio. but you have have them lit if you are stationary. here there is a customizing shop that i went to to get them done,. im sure you can find one near you i bought mine from amazon and for future reference blue and red lights anywhere on your car are USUALLY illegal because they are typically used on emergency vehicles.
No idea, no idea, and no idea.
But if you can actually do this, I really want to see that car...
and this is the Ohio state law website about vehicles: http://codes.ohio.gov/orc/4513
i looked through and read the laws and there are no laws stating that it is illegal to own or operate a vehicle with ground lighting. the only restrictions are if the light is harmful to other drivers or is in excess of 300 candle watt power and hits the ground more than 75 feet away.
they are called underglow lights and it's definitely illegal to drive with them in ohio. but you have have them lit if you are stationary. here there is a customizing shop that i went to to get them done,. im sure you can find one near you i bought mine from amazon and for future reference blue and red lights anywhere on your car are USUALLY illegal because they are typically used on emergency vehicles.
No idea, no idea, and no idea.
But if you can actually do this, I really want to see that car...
I have a cadillac escalade. Brand new battery, alternator and starter and still won't start.?
-If guesses and throwing parts at it does not work out, try getting a proper diagnosis from a mechanic or the dealer.If it is spinning over theres a trick to getting it crancked if theres a bad fuel pump. You'll need help Have somone spin it over while you hit the center of the gas tank with a hammer if it does not start in 3 or 4 licks with the hammer it may still be a bad pump but this is a emergency cranking measure to get you home and help diagnose a fuel system problem, if the engine is not spinning you may have a bad starter relay or ignition switch the security system will not stop the engine from spinning
I鈥檓 sorry to hear that you鈥檙e having troubles with your Escalade. Since I鈥檓 not a technician, I would suggest speaking with your dealership about this so they can help you figure out what鈥檚 going on.
Thanks,
Laura
GM Customer Service
does it TRY to start?
does it click?
does it do anything?
Check your "parking sensor".
Consider buying some gas.
check fuse box you must have a blown fuse.or the computer is bad.
I鈥檓 sorry to hear that you鈥檙e having troubles with your Escalade. Since I鈥檓 not a technician, I would suggest speaking with your dealership about this so they can help you figure out what鈥檚 going on.
Thanks,
Laura
GM Customer Service
does it TRY to start?
does it click?
does it do anything?
Check your "parking sensor".
Consider buying some gas.
check fuse box you must have a blown fuse.or the computer is bad.
Car cranks but will not start?
-Car cranks strong until I push the gas pedal then it stops cranking and the lights dim. Why? 1998 ford explorer 4.0 ohvCould be several things. Low battery voltage, alternator, fuel pump, starter, etc.
How can I remove an extremely tight bolt?
-I'm trying to remove the rear seats out of my 2005 Mazda 6 and in order to do that I have to remove four 10mm bolts. These bolts are absolutely impossible to get out. I really don't want to put a substance in my car thats going to stain or smell it up, any suggestions?Blowlamp with a soft flame (air nearly fully off), heat the bolt and holder from underneath the car (remove carpet and plastic from around the area)
Heat it just till the underseal starts to smoke.
Next take a 10mm socket and ratchet that's been in the freezer for 40 minutes.
Undo the bolt. - if it doesnt go after 5/10 seconds, give it a sharp tap with a small hammer, or hammer and a punch if you cant get at it with the hammer head.
Be quick.
Heat increases the size of both the bolt and hole, the ratchet then cools the bolt first and it shrinks a little in the bolt hole, comes out easier - old school engineering.
10mm bolts wont actually be that tight, but i suspect you may be trying to use an open ended spanner and it just keep slipping off, try using a socket set instead, this has the added advantage of having extensions to help get at those more awkward to reach bolts
You need leverage. Use a breaker bar (16" or 18" long handle ratchet) The long handle gives you more leverage.
Or you can find you a pipe that will slide over your wrench or ratchet, slip it over and push/pull on the pipe.. This will give you more leverage
seat bolts are made that way so they wont back out and cause an unsafe condition, like a loose seat in an accident, it just takes a long socket wrench and strengh, i use a air driven ratchet, they are not easy, thats all,
you need more leverage ,,,, get a wrench that fits the bolt properly. then get a short piece of pipe that will slide over the wrench handle , this will give you a longer handle and more leverage.
can you look under the car and see the other end of the bolts? if you can then spray pb blaster on the threads under the bolts.
Best way is to spray w/ penetrating oil. Try knocking it w/ a hammer and turn it at the same time.
cut it off or a MASSIVE hammer(joke about the hammer)
Heat it just till the underseal starts to smoke.
Next take a 10mm socket and ratchet that's been in the freezer for 40 minutes.
Undo the bolt. - if it doesnt go after 5/10 seconds, give it a sharp tap with a small hammer, or hammer and a punch if you cant get at it with the hammer head.
Be quick.
Heat increases the size of both the bolt and hole, the ratchet then cools the bolt first and it shrinks a little in the bolt hole, comes out easier - old school engineering.
10mm bolts wont actually be that tight, but i suspect you may be trying to use an open ended spanner and it just keep slipping off, try using a socket set instead, this has the added advantage of having extensions to help get at those more awkward to reach bolts
You need leverage. Use a breaker bar (16" or 18" long handle ratchet) The long handle gives you more leverage.
Or you can find you a pipe that will slide over your wrench or ratchet, slip it over and push/pull on the pipe.. This will give you more leverage
seat bolts are made that way so they wont back out and cause an unsafe condition, like a loose seat in an accident, it just takes a long socket wrench and strengh, i use a air driven ratchet, they are not easy, thats all,
you need more leverage ,,,, get a wrench that fits the bolt properly. then get a short piece of pipe that will slide over the wrench handle , this will give you a longer handle and more leverage.
can you look under the car and see the other end of the bolts? if you can then spray pb blaster on the threads under the bolts.
Best way is to spray w/ penetrating oil. Try knocking it w/ a hammer and turn it at the same time.
cut it off or a MASSIVE hammer(joke about the hammer)
Cheap upgrades to engine?
-i have a 1999 jeep cherokee sport 5 speed manual. i would like to spend as little as i can but im looking to add somewhere around 15-20 hp, not much just a little extra umph. i was thinking a cold air intake? any other suggestions?Nay Bro is right on the money. cold air intakes can cost a bit(especially if you get a K&N), but they're definitely worth it when you have a larger displacement engine. if you have the 4.0, you'll probably gain about 5-10hp with the intake alone...plus, it'll sound a hell of a lot better. aside from that, just give her a basic tune-up(oil change, spark plugs, clean out the fuel injectors, etc). engines gradually lose power as they go through more use. some basic maintenance will definitely free up some ponies that've slipped away.
@Pete M: sorry buddy, but Jeep didn't have performance in mind when designing his throttle body, intake, sensors, etc. they had passenger comfort in mind, which is why his muffler doesn't sound like a top-fuel dragster. most Americans treat cars like appliances, and manufacturers are forced to make things a bit quieter for the average consumer. this results in silencing both the intake and the exhaust of a car, which ends up choking your engine. cold air intakes don't offer much of a power increase, but they're still better than stock.
i've had a cold air intake on my Integra for 3 years now. my ECU is operating perfectly, i've had no engine issues whatsoever, and my dyno rating with the catback system is up to about 195hp now(170 stock). sorry, but you don't know what you're talking about.Cold air intakes are old technology.
They worked on carbureted engines but with today's computer controlled, fuel injected, sensor equipped engines they end up causing you a lot of work for zero increase in power.
Your Jeep, engine, fuel injection, air intake and sensors all were designed with best performance as their goal.
If you change one of these components it will affect all the others since the computer is programmed with the original design as it's benchmark.
Your best bet would be to go to a speed shop and talk with the guys there. They should have some current information that could be of use to you.
There is no proof that any of the companies that sell cold air intakes have been able to back up their claims.
A DIY cold air intake, change your spark plugs, change the oil and filter, make sure your timing/tune is in spec. And, if your local law says so, remove the catalytic convertor for better flow.
This should net you about what your looking for. You will be amazed at what a good service and tune can do....
Rear end gears are the best bang for your buck. Although being 4wd you'll need to replace the gears in both the front and rear differential.
@Pete M: sorry buddy, but Jeep didn't have performance in mind when designing his throttle body, intake, sensors, etc. they had passenger comfort in mind, which is why his muffler doesn't sound like a top-fuel dragster. most Americans treat cars like appliances, and manufacturers are forced to make things a bit quieter for the average consumer. this results in silencing both the intake and the exhaust of a car, which ends up choking your engine. cold air intakes don't offer much of a power increase, but they're still better than stock.
i've had a cold air intake on my Integra for 3 years now. my ECU is operating perfectly, i've had no engine issues whatsoever, and my dyno rating with the catback system is up to about 195hp now(170 stock). sorry, but you don't know what you're talking about.Cold air intakes are old technology.
They worked on carbureted engines but with today's computer controlled, fuel injected, sensor equipped engines they end up causing you a lot of work for zero increase in power.
Your Jeep, engine, fuel injection, air intake and sensors all were designed with best performance as their goal.
If you change one of these components it will affect all the others since the computer is programmed with the original design as it's benchmark.
Your best bet would be to go to a speed shop and talk with the guys there. They should have some current information that could be of use to you.
There is no proof that any of the companies that sell cold air intakes have been able to back up their claims.
A DIY cold air intake, change your spark plugs, change the oil and filter, make sure your timing/tune is in spec. And, if your local law says so, remove the catalytic convertor for better flow.
This should net you about what your looking for. You will be amazed at what a good service and tune can do....
Rear end gears are the best bang for your buck. Although being 4wd you'll need to replace the gears in both the front and rear differential.
Why wont my fuel pump shut off on a 2002 vw beetle?
-i recently replaced my fuel pump by recommendation from a vw mechanic. Now without turning the ignition switch the fuel pump runs continuous . Ive pulled the 409 relay and the pump continues to run. I disconnect the the pump overnight to save the battery which i also replaced recently. What the heck is going on?? This car has been a serious cash cow for me. I also have the flashing oil pressure sensor light going off at every stop. Will the pressure switch bypass the relay to stay on continuous? Im a day late from giving this car a cocktail in the drivers seat.....please can anyone help or has faced this problem before. I took it to a vw technician and he called out the relay panel under the dash possibly having a short but thats worse case scenerio. Im the second owner of the car and all the factory wiring seems to me intact. what gives?.....
Car won't start after starting & stopping three or four times?
-My car starts fine the first or second time starting within a few hours time. If I start and stop three or four times odds are the engine won't start and I'll need a jump or I wait about an hour or more and it starts again. When I turn the key I get no sounds whatsoever coming from the engine. Radio works, lights turn on and windows roll down etc. though.
Before I bought a new battery this would happen. I installed a new battery and connectors because they were corroded.
Had a guy check it out at Napa with a tester and he said the Battery health is fine as well as the alternator.
So my QUESTION is this...What are all the others things that could be causing this problem?
Thank you in advance for your time.Are you getting no cranking ?
id say one of 3 things.
Starter relay, ignition switch, starter motor.GO W/ 1ST answer!
You're going to need to part with a little information if you expect to get help here, or anywhere else.
No one has a clue what you are driving. Is it a '51 Ford or a 2011 Cadillac? That does make a difference when you're asking someone to diagnose a problem sight unseen.
What engine do you have? How many miles are on your mystery car? Have you had any other problems that led up to this? Have you had any work done recently? Have you been in an accident lately?
Oh yeah, thanks for telling us your radio works, that's really helpful.
Before I bought a new battery this would happen. I installed a new battery and connectors because they were corroded.
Had a guy check it out at Napa with a tester and he said the Battery health is fine as well as the alternator.
So my QUESTION is this...What are all the others things that could be causing this problem?
Thank you in advance for your time.Are you getting no cranking ?
id say one of 3 things.
Starter relay, ignition switch, starter motor.GO W/ 1ST answer!
You're going to need to part with a little information if you expect to get help here, or anywhere else.
No one has a clue what you are driving. Is it a '51 Ford or a 2011 Cadillac? That does make a difference when you're asking someone to diagnose a problem sight unseen.
What engine do you have? How many miles are on your mystery car? Have you had any other problems that led up to this? Have you had any work done recently? Have you been in an accident lately?
Oh yeah, thanks for telling us your radio works, that's really helpful.
Best Online Retailer For Master Engine Rebuild Kit.?
-I Have a 97 Ford Thunderbird LX with a 3.8 V6 that im wanting to rebuild. Does Anyone Know Of a Website That Sells Quality Rebuild Kits With Competative Prices? How Much Should i Expect to Spend?
Can I install a 205/50 R15 tyre on my car that the original factory setting was 185/65 R14? ?
-Can I install a 205/50 R15 tyre on my Toyota sprinta Trueno 1994 model? The size of the original tyre is 185/65 R14.yes if it can fit to your car.
What is an ignition on a car?
-the ignition system in your car ignites the fuel inside the engine's combustion chamber at the optimal time in the piston stroke. u can refer to herostart. here is more information, b2b platform.the ignition system in your car ignites the fuel inside the engine's combustion chamber at the optimal time in the piston stroke. u can refer to herostart. here is more information, b2b platform.You turn the key in the slot, and the turn sends signals to the battery to send a spark to the pistons. The pistons spark plug then starts to ignite over and over again, like an spark oven, while they get filled with gas. Then, when the spark finally gets caught in the gasoline-air combo, and it ignites, the car starts, and wala, ignition in a nutshell.
I may be wrong, this is from memory, but i'm pretty sure it's right. vote me down if i'm wrong.
You should wiki this, it would save you points.
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Hi
ignition is what is used in a car which fires the spark plugs in a petrol engine.
with a diesel engine it does not need an ignition as the power comes from compression of the diesel oil fuel.
This would be a long winded explanation to go into detail about automotive ignition, so it would be better explained with pics and answers this way:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-s鈥?/a>
good luck......
your ignition is where you put the key in to start it.
Where you put the key aka starter
I may be wrong, this is from memory, but i'm pretty sure it's right. vote me down if i'm wrong.
You should wiki this, it would save you points.
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Hi
ignition is what is used in a car which fires the spark plugs in a petrol engine.
with a diesel engine it does not need an ignition as the power comes from compression of the diesel oil fuel.
This would be a long winded explanation to go into detail about automotive ignition, so it would be better explained with pics and answers this way:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-s鈥?/a>
good luck......
your ignition is where you put the key in to start it.
Where you put the key aka starter
When talking codes what is a bank 1 versus bank 2 on honda accord 2003 v6?
-Cylinder banks. On a V6 there are three cylinders in one bank and three in the other. Bank 1 is usually the first bank in firing order.Bank 1 is always the bank where cylinder #1 is located. So if you can find a diagram showing the firing order, then you'll know
Why is the idle speed high and eratic when cold on my renault scenic 1.6 petrol?
-Once its warmed up it still ticks over high and erratically, between 1000 and 2500 revs. if i carry on driving.
If i stop and leave the car for 10 minutes, and then restart, it runs fine, with a tick over very slightly slow.
Its a 2000 16v. model.
I would really appreciate any help with this as its driving me potty, and i know nothing about car electrics,
Many thanks, Martin .well it sounds like and idle issue , it cold be and iac motor u could try to clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner, and maybe have someone do a fuel sytem service. check ur vacuum hoses. u could have a leak coming from ur intake gaskets. good luck
If i stop and leave the car for 10 minutes, and then restart, it runs fine, with a tick over very slightly slow.
Its a 2000 16v. model.
I would really appreciate any help with this as its driving me potty, and i know nothing about car electrics,
Many thanks, Martin .well it sounds like and idle issue , it cold be and iac motor u could try to clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner, and maybe have someone do a fuel sytem service. check ur vacuum hoses. u could have a leak coming from ur intake gaskets. good luck
How much is it to install cruise control?
-I have a 1995 Chevrolet S10 LS and it does not have cruise control. Anybody know an average price shops charge to install cruise control?
My car has a immobiliser in it. how do i tell if it's broke?
-My 94 Honda Civic was bought with an immobiliser. the other day I went to turn it on and noticed the little light below it was red and yet it was fine. I try to turn the car on but it wont run. Nothing happens bad. No check engine. checked everything i think. Only thing odd is this little red light. I have no idea how to find out what kind of immobiliser i have. I have no idea how to tell if it's the problem and I have no idea who to speak to without knowing who makes it. there's no brand name on it. just a little black port under the steeringwheel that has a little chip that plugs into it. Any info?
Ford Ranger 93' steering problem. Feels like something has come loose....?
-Steering works fine, but I can feel a clunking in steering wheel when I turn, and turn back steering wheel. Like a heavy metal bar is flopping back and forth inside the steering column. Looked at manuel but can't really tell what it could be. Manuel picture doesn't show much when steering wheel is off. Could I access this, "bar" with steering wheel off? What could it be?
I sprayed a clear coat via air compressor setup and have a problem.?
-It looks like water was spitting out of the line as well as the urethane clear coat and you can see water bumps on the bumper. Will this evaporate as the urethane dries or do I need to sand it down and use a better compressor setup?The water will evaporate but the damage is already done.
I would suggest that you go get a moisture separator for your compressor.
This will eliminate the water that is fouling up your paint job.
Let it dry, wet sand it smooth and reshoot. It will be worth it.
Best to let it dry and see how bad, you may be able to buff it out. Probably not though, so you might need to start again. What thinning ratio are you using, and what did you last clean the equipment with ?>
I would suggest that you go get a moisture separator for your compressor.
This will eliminate the water that is fouling up your paint job.
Let it dry, wet sand it smooth and reshoot. It will be worth it.
Best to let it dry and see how bad, you may be able to buff it out. Probably not though, so you might need to start again. What thinning ratio are you using, and what did you last clean the equipment with ?>
I broke a timing belt, Nissan 1993?
-I was on the highway doing about 60mph, and the timing belt broke. It made a quick high pitch and then then motor stopped, I moved to side of the freeway, and turn the key, all the belts turned but it was not turning over, didnt sound like nothing was hitting from the starter, just a winding sound, did I destroy it do you think?Without knowing the model of your car, or the engine size, I can't advise you.
I'm attaching a link to the Gates Rubber web site. On this site you can enter your vehicle information and determine if you have an interference engine or not.
If you do have an interference engine, it's quite possible that the engine was damaged when the timing belt broke.
Best of luck.
it did,nt turn over or it did,nt start? you could have bent the valves the reason it did,nt turn over or started.
I'm attaching a link to the Gates Rubber web site. On this site you can enter your vehicle information and determine if you have an interference engine or not.
If you do have an interference engine, it's quite possible that the engine was damaged when the timing belt broke.
Best of luck.
it did,nt turn over or it did,nt start? you could have bent the valves the reason it did,nt turn over or started.
Is it easy to replace trunk(back) speakers in your car?
-What determines how much bass is in the speakers. I want some with some good bass, but not the kind that shakes the car too much.Basically, your speakers have to handle the amount of power coming from your deck for them to sound good.
There's different sizes for speakers too
And it's very simple, the only hard part is mounting them
oh yeah btw since you said trunk i think your speaker sizes are 6x9's
There's different sizes for speakers too
And it's very simple, the only hard part is mounting them
oh yeah btw since you said trunk i think your speaker sizes are 6x9's
700R4 (4L60) check ball location?
-This is the stock tranny out of a '83 GMC 1500 sierre classic and it is 2 wheel drive.
So i am rebuilding a 700 and i have every thing together except the valve body. I am not sure where all the check balls go and how many there are. When we took it apart we found 13 balls in it. It has been rebuilt before but it never shifted right. Everywhere we look, its all different. Some places says it has 8 balls or 10 or even 6. Some have a big ball and a copper ball, and some dont. they also put them in different location. I am just wondering where are the right places they go and how many are there to make it run the best. Also, we only found 2 valve filters in it. We looked and sources say they have 3. we got 3, but only 2 fit in the right places. How many are there and where do they go? Please, please help me out on this.This website looks helpful. http://www.wwdsltd.com/4L60/4L60EAssembly.html
So i am rebuilding a 700 and i have every thing together except the valve body. I am not sure where all the check balls go and how many there are. When we took it apart we found 13 balls in it. It has been rebuilt before but it never shifted right. Everywhere we look, its all different. Some places says it has 8 balls or 10 or even 6. Some have a big ball and a copper ball, and some dont. they also put them in different location. I am just wondering where are the right places they go and how many are there to make it run the best. Also, we only found 2 valve filters in it. We looked and sources say they have 3. we got 3, but only 2 fit in the right places. How many are there and where do they go? Please, please help me out on this.This website looks helpful. http://www.wwdsltd.com/4L60/4L60EAssembly.html
Someone hit my car and drove away. only door is damaged. what should i do?
-today my landlord came to the door and told me someone had hit my car that was parked on the side of the road and the alarm was going off. no one saw what happened one of the neighbors heard a loud bang and then the alarm went off so he knocked on the landlord's door and told him (we live in a basement suite). we went out to inspect the damage and only the door seems to be damaged. it opens but it's not as smooth as it was before it kind of pops in and out slightly when it's opened. the car seems to be driving fine. we tried to look around the nieghborhood to see if we could see any damaged cars that may have hit us but didn't have any luck
my question is what should i do about it? the car is pretty old and crappy ('93 honda civic). i have comprehensive coverage but the deductible is $500 and i hate dealing with insurance companies and i don't know if my rates will go up if i make a claim on it even if it wasn't my fault.
what is the possible damage that could have been done other than the obvious damage to the door?
if it is only the door that is damaged then how much would it cost just to get a new door put on? if it's only like $600 then i wouldn't even deal with the insurance company. i don't want to pay a lot to get this fixed since i only paid $2700 for the car to begin with.
what would you do in my situation?Call your insurance and get an estimatelA 1993 honda civic door would not cost over 100.00 used and about an other 100.00 to install. Check the wrecking yards and price it on two or three for price comparison. You can look on Craigslist under auto parts and search for honda civic parts or even on E-bay. Usually there are two or three years the doors are the same . Good luck
I would just get it fixed, sure it's an inconvenience but it's worse buying a new car, because it takes even longer and it's more hassle, so i would either fix it, or just leave it as it is.
If you just have comprehensive coverage, that won't pay to get your car fixed anyway.
As a matter of fact, on a car of that age and value I would recommend that you don't pay for collision insurance on it anyway.
All you really need is liability coverage to pay for the other car, medical and property damage if you ever have an accident.
I'd either fix the door myself or go to a wrecking yard and get a replacement.
You could probably get a friend to help you install the door and take it to a body shop to have it painted. You could probably get by for less than $300-400 total, if you do it that way.
my question is what should i do about it? the car is pretty old and crappy ('93 honda civic). i have comprehensive coverage but the deductible is $500 and i hate dealing with insurance companies and i don't know if my rates will go up if i make a claim on it even if it wasn't my fault.
what is the possible damage that could have been done other than the obvious damage to the door?
if it is only the door that is damaged then how much would it cost just to get a new door put on? if it's only like $600 then i wouldn't even deal with the insurance company. i don't want to pay a lot to get this fixed since i only paid $2700 for the car to begin with.
what would you do in my situation?Call your insurance and get an estimatelA 1993 honda civic door would not cost over 100.00 used and about an other 100.00 to install. Check the wrecking yards and price it on two or three for price comparison. You can look on Craigslist under auto parts and search for honda civic parts or even on E-bay. Usually there are two or three years the doors are the same . Good luck
I would just get it fixed, sure it's an inconvenience but it's worse buying a new car, because it takes even longer and it's more hassle, so i would either fix it, or just leave it as it is.
If you just have comprehensive coverage, that won't pay to get your car fixed anyway.
As a matter of fact, on a car of that age and value I would recommend that you don't pay for collision insurance on it anyway.
All you really need is liability coverage to pay for the other car, medical and property damage if you ever have an accident.
I'd either fix the door myself or go to a wrecking yard and get a replacement.
You could probably get a friend to help you install the door and take it to a body shop to have it painted. You could probably get by for less than $300-400 total, if you do it that way.
Why does my car idle rough and stall? ?
-I have a 2004 pontiac sunfire. And as of two weeks ago it started to idle rough and stall. But if you drive it down the road and stay above 15-20mph than it drives perfect. As soon as you get below that than the brakes become hard to push and the engine gets rough again. Now I've tested the check engine light and I'm getting "MAP pressure high" and multiple random mis-fires. I've given it a tune up and changed the fuel filter. I've also cleaned the air intake choke. But after I did that it seems like the exhaust got a little louder and it smelled like something was burning. I am stumped on this. The only thing I can think of is maybe the fuel pump could be bad. But I replaced that a little over a year ago. And I really don't want to drop $280 for one if it isn't what it is. Please help I don't know what else to do!Im with the first answerer, take a can of carb cleaner,or starting ether keep the ether from getting in the intake give some quick shots around the base of the intake manifold if the idle goes up, there is a vacume leak. Something is not right, also something about exhaust souniding louder you need a shop manual so you can check the cold air start up system, something is not right. and go to carcomplaints.com and check out some of the old complaints, and recalls, often times issues similar to this play out over and over with specific models. Lets see if we cant keep the sunfire on the road for a while longer ok? carcomplaints.com may have similar problems over several years, so check other model years , read the complaints in engines or electrical and transmission to see if their experiences ring any bells, and keep it simple try one thing at a time and drive it for awhile to see if anything helps. possible ideas, clean the ground wires like the negative to the pattery ( black) clean the inside of the terminals with a wire brush and baking soda and water, make sure all connections are tight and good contact is made, also there is a ground on the back of the block to the frame, make sure this is in good shape yesterday I read about both a suburban and a similar model tahoe having similar problems vehicle would shut down and barely run, or idle poorly and sometimes stall, on persons mechanic replaced the ground on the back of the engine block and this helped, so you never know, sometimes its the simple fix that does the trick, so keep looking things over, if the ground wireIt sounds more like a vaccum leak. Either at the intake manifold or one of the hoses going to it. Check your vaccum lines. The brake booster is a vaccum assist, that would explain your brakes being hard to push.
you might want to change the fuel filter. it might be starting to clog up. another thing it could be and that,s the fuel regulator. pull the vacuum line off of it and see if gas runs out. there should be no gas in the vacuum line.
you might want to change the fuel filter. it might be starting to clog up. another thing it could be and that,s the fuel regulator. pull the vacuum line off of it and see if gas runs out. there should be no gas in the vacuum line.
Cost of a lambda sensor for '99 Volvo S80 2.4?
-I went to the mechanic as my car kept cutting out as I cornered or came to a stop. He told me I needed a lambda sensor and said it will cost 拢159.99 excluding VAT, and will cost me 拢69.99 excluding VAT for the labour. I've been looking on Google shopping and I'm seeing prices range from 拢15.59 all the way to 拢253.93. So I am completely confused why there is such a range in prices. Can anyone shed some light?Cheaply made,inferior quality imports(guess from where)not only are the cheap ones not worth fitting a bad one "WILL" kill the catalytic converter,try pricing that part!
anyway,cutting out when coming to a stop,yes,I can see that,but what the hell does cornering have to do with the o2 sensor.
needs further investigation I THINK'
anyway,cutting out when coming to a stop,yes,I can see that,but what the hell does cornering have to do with the o2 sensor.
needs further investigation I THINK'
2011年8月3日星期三
2003 Chevy Taho problem?
-Hello recently i've been having problems with my 2003 chevy tahoe.Now the problem is when i start the car everything goes fine until i hit a traffic light.At the stop light the car tries to turn off and the PRND lights start flickering on and off as if the car is trying hard to stay on.If i stay long at the stop,the car usually turn off and its pretty hard to turn it back on.So i was wondering what the problem is and how do i fix it?Thanks.that sounds a little odd to say the least, here is my suggestion go to carcomplaints.com and click on the manufacturers name to the left in blue letters on the home page. click into the page and scroll down to click on the model and year, read some of the complaints from that year and see if they sound similar there may also be a link or some information on how to fix the problem, through either the recall information or the TSB (Technical Service Bulletins) good luck.
I did check carcomplaints, and sure enough there were plenty of complaints about these vehicles and
5 had similar problems and it seems the dealers like to guess things like dirty fuel injection, charge two hundred to clean it and it does not fix the problem, and replacing fuel injection was an expensive option there seem to be slap on some expensive parts and see what happens which ain't right. I also read this morning about an 03 suburban that had a problem with the engine going into that limp home mode took it to his own mechanic who replaced the ground on the back of the engine block and cured his hard to start problem and his limp home mode popping up . For what its worth, giving the the vehicle and new ground from the block, and cleaning the contact points thoroughly makes sense to me especially if its a wire its ten years old now. my suggestion is replace that. and hope like heck it cures the problem, because replacing some high dollar parts like the ecu, the fuel injection is next on the list.
I did check carcomplaints, and sure enough there were plenty of complaints about these vehicles and
5 had similar problems and it seems the dealers like to guess things like dirty fuel injection, charge two hundred to clean it and it does not fix the problem, and replacing fuel injection was an expensive option there seem to be slap on some expensive parts and see what happens which ain't right. I also read this morning about an 03 suburban that had a problem with the engine going into that limp home mode took it to his own mechanic who replaced the ground on the back of the engine block and cured his hard to start problem and his limp home mode popping up . For what its worth, giving the the vehicle and new ground from the block, and cleaning the contact points thoroughly makes sense to me especially if its a wire its ten years old now. my suggestion is replace that. and hope like heck it cures the problem, because replacing some high dollar parts like the ecu, the fuel injection is next on the list.
AC does not work properly. Please help?
-Rear air blows ice cold but the front does not. When I turn on the low setting, it does not come on at all. I put it in medium or low, it blows like it is on super super low, I cant hear or feel any air like it works for the back.. What could be the problem? 97 AstroIf the rear air works as it should and the front doesn't then you can one of two things wrong. First the damper doors on the front may not be working, not opening up as they should, some now are electric, but most are controlled by vacuum. Second the front blower switch might not be making contact within itself to signal the fan motor to speed up, may need to replace switch if necessary. If rear air is cold system does not need to be charged, check cooling door dampers and front blower switch.
To properly service an A/C system, it's first necessary to find and repair the leak, then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump and add the proper amount of refrigerant and oil to the system.
Without a doubt, the best method is to take your vehicle to an independent shop and have a certified A/C technician service your system.
He will have all the tools, equipment and training to get the job done right the first time without causing damage to your system.
A/C systems are really not user friendly when it comes to DIY repairs since they require specialized tools, equipment and training to do the job properly the first time, without causing damage.
Don't waste your money on those recharge kits you can buy in auto parts stores as they don't deal with the primary problem.
The primary problem is that A/C is a closed system.
If it needs recharged, that鈥檚 because there's a leak. The leak must be fixed before recharging the system or it's pointless.
check the vent hoses in the front then the controls because they may be stuck on the rear setting
Sounds like you might need a new air conditioner.
To properly service an A/C system, it's first necessary to find and repair the leak, then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump and add the proper amount of refrigerant and oil to the system.
Without a doubt, the best method is to take your vehicle to an independent shop and have a certified A/C technician service your system.
He will have all the tools, equipment and training to get the job done right the first time without causing damage to your system.
A/C systems are really not user friendly when it comes to DIY repairs since they require specialized tools, equipment and training to do the job properly the first time, without causing damage.
Don't waste your money on those recharge kits you can buy in auto parts stores as they don't deal with the primary problem.
The primary problem is that A/C is a closed system.
If it needs recharged, that鈥檚 because there's a leak. The leak must be fixed before recharging the system or it's pointless.
check the vent hoses in the front then the controls because they may be stuck on the rear setting
Sounds like you might need a new air conditioner.
How often do you wash your car?
-Just wanted opinions.
I used to wash my car evey month (self hand wash), but now I kinda just wash it when it looks dirty?
Is there a best general time variable in order to compete your car generally clean?I wash mine every week, Usually on weekends when I can relax and just do it, Or, if your going somewhere and want it to look nice, I will say one thing, I just bought 2 products from Advance Auto Parts that work REALLLLY well and are quick for detailing. One is called "Invisible Glass" and the other is Griot's Detail Spray. Oh man, that spray on wax is the best I've ever bought, and I've bought a zillion of them. And that glass cleaner, It goes on nice and your windows come out clear and shiny. No foggy look. I just did my car again tonight, hehe, so, I just had to give you that tip.
once a week. polish and wax once a month. Because of the short interval between washes, it is easier to clean and less time consuming.
I wash my car every 2 weeks and detail it every month. But if go somewhere special so i wash it day before.
Never I just clean the inside
I used to wash my car evey month (self hand wash), but now I kinda just wash it when it looks dirty?
Is there a best general time variable in order to compete your car generally clean?I wash mine every week, Usually on weekends when I can relax and just do it, Or, if your going somewhere and want it to look nice, I will say one thing, I just bought 2 products from Advance Auto Parts that work REALLLLY well and are quick for detailing. One is called "Invisible Glass" and the other is Griot's Detail Spray. Oh man, that spray on wax is the best I've ever bought, and I've bought a zillion of them. And that glass cleaner, It goes on nice and your windows come out clear and shiny. No foggy look. I just did my car again tonight, hehe, so, I just had to give you that tip.
once a week. polish and wax once a month. Because of the short interval between washes, it is easier to clean and less time consuming.
I wash my car every 2 weeks and detail it every month. But if go somewhere special so i wash it day before.
Never I just clean the inside
What is causing my car to start and stall?
-I went out to my car to find that the key fob didn't work so I opened it up with the key and hit the unlock lever and got no response. Feeling maybe I killed the battery I went to start the vehicle, it fired right up and shut down right away. Some other things that I had noticed is, the trunk release inside the car did not work, the interior lights did not work...but then all the sudden came on and I had to pull the fuse to get them off, the radio worked until we shut it off and now it doesn't work. I also noticed it takes a few seconds for the dash to light up and not all the lights come on, the gas gauge don't move and the low fuel light stays on (there IS gas in the vehicle).
Another thing I noticed was a puddle of water on the floor on the passenger side. We had gotten some crazy rain that morning and I found the weather strip not sealed along the bottom of the windshield.
Also 2 days prior I had the Throttle position sensor replaced. The car ran better than I can remember it running after this replacement. I parked it, and the next morning it was in this current condition.
We thought it might be the battery having a dead cell, the battery is fine. I am guessing either it got some important parts wet inside the dash...or maybe the piece of crap theft system has failed and put me in complete lock down as the car starts and dies right away.
Does anybody have any thoughts on this and what I can do. If it is just wet will it dry out and go back to normal?
Another thing I noticed was a puddle of water on the floor on the passenger side. We had gotten some crazy rain that morning and I found the weather strip not sealed along the bottom of the windshield.
Also 2 days prior I had the Throttle position sensor replaced. The car ran better than I can remember it running after this replacement. I parked it, and the next morning it was in this current condition.
We thought it might be the battery having a dead cell, the battery is fine. I am guessing either it got some important parts wet inside the dash...or maybe the piece of crap theft system has failed and put me in complete lock down as the car starts and dies right away.
Does anybody have any thoughts on this and what I can do. If it is just wet will it dry out and go back to normal?
Alternator or belt? 98 WS6 Trans Am?
-Tonight when I was driving my car the "check gauges" light came on and the voltage meter was going down fast. The signals got slow and the lights started cutting off then the car died while I was driving it. At first I thought it was the alternator but then I remembered the power steering fluid had started leaking really bad and smoking (I'm assuming the burn off of fluid). Could this have cause the belt to slip and keep the alternator from charging the battery? Help! A new alternator is going to cost around $170 and that does'nt include labor.
What is this engine part on a Ford Focus?
-I was driving my Ford Focus today and hit a pot hole. The car started making a noise. Turns out the noise was because some cap was rubbing against a belt. After the cap was taken off the belt, it sounded fine. The cap came off of something under the coolant reservoir. It has some type of fluid in it. It doesn't smell like oil or anything. What is this? What should I do?flat rubber cap with a groove around it grommet used to cover rust check hole dome type could be cap off strutt top therefor may have damaged strutDoes the cap have a Label on it. There are only so many things that it could be since you said it was under your coolant reservoir we will say that its not the cap to that. what about your windshield wiper fluid reservoir or maybe its your power steering fluid reservoir now that I think of it those are the only other 2 reservoir caps besides the coolant.
If you hit a pothole and the car started making noise, it wasn't any cap making the noise. You prob have front strut damage, it prob needs replacement.
If you hit a pothole and the car started making noise, it wasn't any cap making the noise. You prob have front strut damage, it prob needs replacement.
Why my car does not start?
-I had to use the jumper cables, so when i did this the car started, but when I shut down the engine and by the time i want to start the car again it wont start, its only in a matter of seconds, but when i use the jumper cables with another car that supplies power to me then the car starts right away..is it the battery? starter? alternator?it could be any of those three things. my car had the same prob a yr back, i changed the alternator, then the battery and that didn't help and so i had to bring it in and it was the crankshaft sensor! If its anything sensor related, its really hard for you to diagnose that, you need a sensor tester....
you can look here, hope help.
http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/
restart your car-go to auto zone or similar auto parts store-they can test your battery-alternator and its free!!(always good) they also have code reader there and can read codes-all you are out to find out problem is your time-then comes the money thing
try a new alternator
your battery is done get a new battery
you can look here, hope help.
http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/
restart your car-go to auto zone or similar auto parts store-they can test your battery-alternator and its free!!(always good) they also have code reader there and can read codes-all you are out to find out problem is your time-then comes the money thing
try a new alternator
your battery is done get a new battery
When to get first oil change for new car?
-Hi all, I got a new Jeep in mid-April, and just got an automated e-mail from the dealer saying it's time to change the oil. I've put 4500 miles on it, and I've heard everything from 3000 to 7500 miles (as time to wait between changes). I've also heard that new cars have more crap in the oil the first few times--if that's true, does that mean I should get it changed more regularly than usual? I was planning to get the first one done at about 5000 miles, because I'm moving out of state soon and wanted to get it taken care of. But then I looked in my owner's manual, and the first service interval listed is 8000 miles (it says to change oil and rotate tires). So should I go ahead and do it, or can I wait until 8000 miles like the manual says (well, it doesn't explicitly say not to do it before 8000, but like I said 8000 is the first block listed in the maintenance schedule). I just want to do whatever's best for the car. Thanks in advance!!as the last person said if its in the vehicle coverage go ahead and do it, its not really until you reach 80,000 miles that it needs to be changed around 4000-5000 miles.You should be safe by going with the intervals recommended in the owner's manual.
The warranty is provided by the manufacturer, not the dealer. As long as you give your Jeep the service as scheduled in your owner's manual you should be fine.
You can always call Chrysler / Jeep customer service (there should be a toll free number in your owner's manual) and verify with them to be 100% sure)
Wait until the 8,000 miles. Brand new don't need all that fancy work. If this is thru your dealers coverage then by all means do it. If not, just wait.
If the owners manuel says you can go 7thousand without a oil change I guess you could. Would I do it? Never. If your gonna run oil that long make sure you use a synthetic then. Conventional oil will be broking down by then
The warranty is provided by the manufacturer, not the dealer. As long as you give your Jeep the service as scheduled in your owner's manual you should be fine.
You can always call Chrysler / Jeep customer service (there should be a toll free number in your owner's manual) and verify with them to be 100% sure)
Wait until the 8,000 miles. Brand new don't need all that fancy work. If this is thru your dealers coverage then by all means do it. If not, just wait.
If the owners manuel says you can go 7thousand without a oil change I guess you could. Would I do it? Never. If your gonna run oil that long make sure you use a synthetic then. Conventional oil will be broking down by then
Biggest Engine in a 2003 Toyota Yaris?
-i was wondering, what is the biggest/most powerful engine i could possibly fit into my 2003 Toyota Yaris 1.0 if i wanted to change it?
Why might my car be running hot?
-I'm not very car savvy, so I'm sorry if this is a stupid question. Just answer it if you know. :)
Ok, so I drive a Pontiac Grand Prix and my temperature gauge is like this: http://tinypic.com/r/vnhwt1/7
Normally, and for the longest time, the car stayed on 160 pretty much the whole time. Recently it's been running at 210 but didn't go any higher. I was told not to worry until it got into the red. But today and yesterday it's been running between the 210 and the numberless big line above it. And then this morning it even went between the last big line and the red, but never touched the red and didn't stay high for very long. It's fine on the interstate, but when I'm stopping and going in the city it keeps going high, cooling off, etc.
I've had my low coolant light come on in the past and I added coolant to it, but it's not on now. No light are on and the car is acting fine other than the temperature gauge. It's been a REALLY hot summer in SC so far, but I don't know if that makes a difference. What should I do?If car gets hot at idle and low speed, only, make sure electric Fan comes on. At 210 degrees F---if it Is 210, and thermometer is Right-- it should run Constantly. Also, squeeze the upper radiator hose (Cold!) , it should go down--if not, your thermostat is sticky. You may also have a clogged Radiator,if it doesn't seem to loose water. If it isn't losing Water ( you don't see puddles from beneath car or inside, where heater core is) you have a blown head gasket or crack somewhere.
Dirt and debris in the radiator or if your car has it a bad viscous drive. 160 is too low it should be more like 190 for the emission equipment to work properly.
I wouldn't buy something extra to handle the heat your car was built to handle, you will only have to cure the problem later anyway.
Make sure the radiator is full with water and coolant. Or The air filter could be full of dust and muck, therefore the car is struggling to breath and uses more power/fuel/energy to drive(much like a human body). Also just as a precautionary check the oil is full.
3 things you could do dear. first if it,s just showing hot and it,s not it could be the temperature sending unit acting up. you could flush out the cooling system so it can circulate better and change the thermostat, it might be sticking with you sometimes.
If you ever have to add coolant, you have a leak. Coolant doesn't get "used" up.
Secondly, it sounds like your radiator fan(s) is/are not working correctly. Have the fans checked out for when they are supposed to come on, and when they really do.
You will need to buy a heat-sink for your radiator. You can find these in most car shops and online if the former option doesn't produce results. Be sure it is of industrial quality
You should only use the "Direct Link For Layouts". The code you used allows people access to your entire gallery including the pic of you on your bed.
Sounds like the thermometer might be shot. It's a cheap easy fix. 210 is very hot. That can wreck your car. If it ever gets above 170, run the heat.
Ok, so I drive a Pontiac Grand Prix and my temperature gauge is like this: http://tinypic.com/r/vnhwt1/7
Normally, and for the longest time, the car stayed on 160 pretty much the whole time. Recently it's been running at 210 but didn't go any higher. I was told not to worry until it got into the red. But today and yesterday it's been running between the 210 and the numberless big line above it. And then this morning it even went between the last big line and the red, but never touched the red and didn't stay high for very long. It's fine on the interstate, but when I'm stopping and going in the city it keeps going high, cooling off, etc.
I've had my low coolant light come on in the past and I added coolant to it, but it's not on now. No light are on and the car is acting fine other than the temperature gauge. It's been a REALLY hot summer in SC so far, but I don't know if that makes a difference. What should I do?If car gets hot at idle and low speed, only, make sure electric Fan comes on. At 210 degrees F---if it Is 210, and thermometer is Right-- it should run Constantly. Also, squeeze the upper radiator hose (Cold!) , it should go down--if not, your thermostat is sticky. You may also have a clogged Radiator,if it doesn't seem to loose water. If it isn't losing Water ( you don't see puddles from beneath car or inside, where heater core is) you have a blown head gasket or crack somewhere.
Dirt and debris in the radiator or if your car has it a bad viscous drive. 160 is too low it should be more like 190 for the emission equipment to work properly.
I wouldn't buy something extra to handle the heat your car was built to handle, you will only have to cure the problem later anyway.
Make sure the radiator is full with water and coolant. Or The air filter could be full of dust and muck, therefore the car is struggling to breath and uses more power/fuel/energy to drive(much like a human body). Also just as a precautionary check the oil is full.
3 things you could do dear. first if it,s just showing hot and it,s not it could be the temperature sending unit acting up. you could flush out the cooling system so it can circulate better and change the thermostat, it might be sticking with you sometimes.
If you ever have to add coolant, you have a leak. Coolant doesn't get "used" up.
Secondly, it sounds like your radiator fan(s) is/are not working correctly. Have the fans checked out for when they are supposed to come on, and when they really do.
You will need to buy a heat-sink for your radiator. You can find these in most car shops and online if the former option doesn't produce results. Be sure it is of industrial quality
You should only use the "Direct Link For Layouts". The code you used allows people access to your entire gallery including the pic of you on your bed.
Sounds like the thermometer might be shot. It's a cheap easy fix. 210 is very hot. That can wreck your car. If it ever gets above 170, run the heat.
Are these good spark plugs?
-http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Accel-Spark-Plug-Performance/1998-Saturn-SC2/_/N-jadatZ9n9lc?counter=0&itemIdentifier=266632_92329_1367_
if not what would be a good plug
i have a 98 saturn sc2
if not what would be a good plug
i have a 98 saturn sc2
Car shuts off while driving?
-i have an 89 civic. it just recently started shutting off while driving. it doesnt lose all power. but the engine basically shuts off and i can usually start it back up while coasting . but i did end up having to pull on the side of the road and took awhile to get it to start it would start with no problem then die. then finally started and drives perfect but cuts off here and there. and my oil light flashes everyonce in awhile. is there something loose like a wire or? like i said when its running its fine. there isnt any engine problems , so im assuming its a connectionYour oil pressure sensor may be bad. When it senses there is low oil, it shuts motor off. I would look for a shorted wire under the hood. if you can't find one, locate the oil pressure sensor and wiggle the wire. That will fix it.
Check on the oil pressure switch. some vehicles will shut down completley if there is a problem with the oil pressure switch.
There must be something wrong with your oil, you should probably get it fixed.
can u pull codes on that old of a civic?could be a fuel probelem or does it start breaking down like it has a bad coil? does it miss a little before it does it> or just shut off? bad fule filter full of goo, mine has a low oil pressure sensor that shut the engine off if the oil presuure is low, figured that one out in the middle of an intersectionturnng left , it pulled it away from the sensor and stalled erith there, figured it out hours laterin the hot sun, DOH, ,yeah!,,, water inthe fuel> there all kinds of possibilities 89 copulod have a bad catlyutic converter full of soot is it losing power as well struggling to accel;reate. does it have an egr valve that is full of carbonadn crap and sticking when it should close freely causeing a vacuum problem stalling it, i cant think of anything else right now, ohh check the wires to the coil and make sure they are tighted and not freyed, thats all i got,.god luck,
Check on the oil pressure switch. some vehicles will shut down completley if there is a problem with the oil pressure switch.
There must be something wrong with your oil, you should probably get it fixed.
can u pull codes on that old of a civic?could be a fuel probelem or does it start breaking down like it has a bad coil? does it miss a little before it does it> or just shut off? bad fule filter full of goo, mine has a low oil pressure sensor that shut the engine off if the oil presuure is low, figured that one out in the middle of an intersectionturnng left , it pulled it away from the sensor and stalled erith there, figured it out hours laterin the hot sun, DOH, ,yeah!,,, water inthe fuel> there all kinds of possibilities 89 copulod have a bad catlyutic converter full of soot is it losing power as well struggling to accel;reate. does it have an egr valve that is full of carbonadn crap and sticking when it should close freely causeing a vacuum problem stalling it, i cant think of anything else right now, ohh check the wires to the coil and make sure they are tighted and not freyed, thats all i got,.god luck,
Any key can start my motorbike?!?
-ok i have a problem duno if i can fix it myself? but it seems like the little pins inside the key ignition are stuck in the unlock position because my key does not stay fixed in the ignition it just slips out and slot i can put ANY key in my motorbike now and start it, even a flat headed screwdriver!, how do i fix this? can i fix it by sticking something inside and nudging the pins or something? how much will it cost to fix?You could try squirting some dry graphite into the lock opening and raking the pins with a stiff wire.
This may be enough to free up your lock.
If that doesn't work you could either take your bike to a locksmith and see if he can either fix it or replace the ignition.
SOMONE PROBABLY AT SOME POINT SPRAYED OIL IN THERE AND THATS A NONO, NOW YOU HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN AND TRY AND FREE UP THE PINS AND SE IT THEY WILL WORK FREE AGAIN, YOUR SUPPOSED TO USE DRY GRAPHITE TO LUBE A KEY HOLE BUT MOST PEOPLE DONT, BIKE KEYS FACE UP AND GET MOISTURE AND WATER IN THE AND DO THIS, WD40 IT AND JIGGLE IT AROUND SEE WHAT HAPPENS OR IT MAY JUST BE WORN OUT,
This may be enough to free up your lock.
If that doesn't work you could either take your bike to a locksmith and see if he can either fix it or replace the ignition.
SOMONE PROBABLY AT SOME POINT SPRAYED OIL IN THERE AND THATS A NONO, NOW YOU HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN AND TRY AND FREE UP THE PINS AND SE IT THEY WILL WORK FREE AGAIN, YOUR SUPPOSED TO USE DRY GRAPHITE TO LUBE A KEY HOLE BUT MOST PEOPLE DONT, BIKE KEYS FACE UP AND GET MOISTURE AND WATER IN THE AND DO THIS, WD40 IT AND JIGGLE IT AROUND SEE WHAT HAPPENS OR IT MAY JUST BE WORN OUT,
How much would it cost to get my car painted and where can i get it painted?
-I drive a 1989white Mercedes and I want the car painted black.
I live in Atlanta ga if you know any specific locations.
I'm looking for a low price but not a cheap looking paint job
Note: Im a new driver so I'm a little slowyou can take it to Maaco... they do a good job for like $450-600
I live in Atlanta ga if you know any specific locations.
I'm looking for a low price but not a cheap looking paint job
Note: Im a new driver so I'm a little slowyou can take it to Maaco... they do a good job for like $450-600
2008 Lancer airbags did not go off in an accident? How to make them deploy?
-I have a friend who was involved in a front-on collision in his 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer. His air bags did not deploy, do you know why? What's the requirement for the airbags to go off?
He was doing about 25-25km/h when he collided.
Also, is there a way the airbags can be set off, so it would appear that they have deployed during the accident?
ThanksAirbags are designed to deploy in frontal and near-frontal collisions more severe than a threshold defined by the regulations governing vehicle construction in whatever particular market the vehicle is intended for: U.S. regulations require deployment in crashes at least equivalent in deceleration to a 23 km/h (14 mph) barrier collision, or similarly, striking a parked car of similar size across the full front of each vehicle at about twice the speed.[29] International regulations are performance based, rather than technology-based, so airbag deployment threshold is a function of overall vehicle design.
Today, airbag triggering algorithms are becoming much more complex. They try to reduce unnecessary deployments and to adapt the deployment speed to the crash conditions. The algorithms are considered valuable intellectual property. Experimental algorithms may take into account such factors as the weight of the occupant, the seat location, seatbelt use, and even attempt to determine if a baby seat is present.
You will need to access the SRS computer, throuhout the cars wiring there are bright yellow wires, these are specifically yesllow for the SRS airbags. They will collect at a point usually under the dash. Im guessing if you go crazy and add positive to the wires on the computer, you will trigger the airbags. But make sure your not in the way of them, they hurt.
He was doing about 25-25km/h when he collided.
Also, is there a way the airbags can be set off, so it would appear that they have deployed during the accident?
ThanksAirbags are designed to deploy in frontal and near-frontal collisions more severe than a threshold defined by the regulations governing vehicle construction in whatever particular market the vehicle is intended for: U.S. regulations require deployment in crashes at least equivalent in deceleration to a 23 km/h (14 mph) barrier collision, or similarly, striking a parked car of similar size across the full front of each vehicle at about twice the speed.[29] International regulations are performance based, rather than technology-based, so airbag deployment threshold is a function of overall vehicle design.
Today, airbag triggering algorithms are becoming much more complex. They try to reduce unnecessary deployments and to adapt the deployment speed to the crash conditions. The algorithms are considered valuable intellectual property. Experimental algorithms may take into account such factors as the weight of the occupant, the seat location, seatbelt use, and even attempt to determine if a baby seat is present.
You will need to access the SRS computer, throuhout the cars wiring there are bright yellow wires, these are specifically yesllow for the SRS airbags. They will collect at a point usually under the dash. Im guessing if you go crazy and add positive to the wires on the computer, you will trigger the airbags. But make sure your not in the way of them, they hurt.
1991 geo metro 2dr and 1991 4dr geo metro parts swap?
-hi guys. newish to cars and i just bought a 91 geo metro 2dr hatch not much is wrong with it. but there is a parts car listed locally and its a 4door. as with older cars it needs some work so because the 4dr is bigger will i be able to take the front 2 doors off of it and put them on mine? what about the windshield? bumper? and the big question the engine and transmission should a 4dr engine and transmission be able to bolt up to a 2 door? the tranny on the 4dr is a 5speed while the transmission on mine is a automatic i know it would need some things changed but would it work, or even his engine onto my transmision just in case i have issues having a cheap back up? and my seats are shot should the front seats fit into mine?
so pretty much would most of the parts from a 4dr geo metro 1991 fit onto a 2dr geo metro 1991?
and in the add it says Suzuki Swift say bars(big handling improvement) what is this and what does it do and would this alone be worth buying off of the parts car?
thank you guys for all the help
JohnEverything apart from the doors fits.
The front seats in the 4 door dont fold back to let rear passengers in, but they can be wound forward, though it could fail inspection since it's hard to get out quickly in an emergency.
BUT - You can take the seat covers (and foam) from the good seats and fit them to your original seats, the covers arent hard to remove, they fit like a boxing glove, they pull over the seat and lace up at the bottom, hard to go wrong.
Engine and transmission both fit, but the manual engine wont fit the automatic box, and vice versa, the flywheel and shaft are different.
All suspension is the same, brakes the same, dash, most of the electrics.
Windscreen is the same.
Doubt any of the other windows will fit apart from the rear screen maybe.
Rear seats or at least the covers and foam should be ok -
Suzuki swift sway bars (anti-roll bars) are stiffer and therefore keep the car more level when cornering at speed - 8-10 bolts, one off, one on :)
Though the auto box and engine are incompatible you can use all of the engine parts on your existing engine, head, pistons, crank, starter, alternator etc etc etc.
(the auto might have an oil cooler which would be good to butcher if you're planning on having a fast road car)
For any questions that you have regarding interchangeable parts and which parts will fit which different vehicles, talk to the folks at your local wrecking yard.
Most wrecking yards are networked with many others across the U.S. and can order most any part you need. They can usually have the part for you within a couple days.
They also have access to all the interchangeability data you could possibly ever need right at their fingertips.
They'll give you accurate information and in just a few minutes.
so pretty much would most of the parts from a 4dr geo metro 1991 fit onto a 2dr geo metro 1991?
and in the add it says Suzuki Swift say bars(big handling improvement) what is this and what does it do and would this alone be worth buying off of the parts car?
thank you guys for all the help
JohnEverything apart from the doors fits.
The front seats in the 4 door dont fold back to let rear passengers in, but they can be wound forward, though it could fail inspection since it's hard to get out quickly in an emergency.
BUT - You can take the seat covers (and foam) from the good seats and fit them to your original seats, the covers arent hard to remove, they fit like a boxing glove, they pull over the seat and lace up at the bottom, hard to go wrong.
Engine and transmission both fit, but the manual engine wont fit the automatic box, and vice versa, the flywheel and shaft are different.
All suspension is the same, brakes the same, dash, most of the electrics.
Windscreen is the same.
Doubt any of the other windows will fit apart from the rear screen maybe.
Rear seats or at least the covers and foam should be ok -
Suzuki swift sway bars (anti-roll bars) are stiffer and therefore keep the car more level when cornering at speed - 8-10 bolts, one off, one on :)
Though the auto box and engine are incompatible you can use all of the engine parts on your existing engine, head, pistons, crank, starter, alternator etc etc etc.
(the auto might have an oil cooler which would be good to butcher if you're planning on having a fast road car)
For any questions that you have regarding interchangeable parts and which parts will fit which different vehicles, talk to the folks at your local wrecking yard.
Most wrecking yards are networked with many others across the U.S. and can order most any part you need. They can usually have the part for you within a couple days.
They also have access to all the interchangeability data you could possibly ever need right at their fingertips.
They'll give you accurate information and in just a few minutes.
Can i get a new seat for my jeep at a junk yard?
-my drivers seat in my 1992 jeep cherokee broke and it rocks around when i drive. how much do u think it would cost for me to get a new one at a junk yard?
Tested my starter motor and its making a weird noise?
-Tested my starter motor with a battery charger and it's making a weird noise like tharrrrrrm thurrrrrrm and not doing anything else i tapped on the solenoid tested it again all that did was make the noise sound a bit different any idea whats wrong? and would it be easy to fix by an auto electrician?You could probably try to fix it yourself. Starters aren't worth having a mechanic fix. The time it takes them ends up costing more than if you just purchase a new starter, or like a refurbished one. Try taking it apart and seeing if you can diagnose the problem, I did it with mine and it ended up only costing me 70 cents instead of spending 110 bucks on a refurbished one.A battery charger will not supply the amperage needed to engage the solenoid, let alone drive the starter motor.
ADDED: If you have used your powerful charger to test starters before, and this one isn't working, why are you asking the question? Get it fixed. The difference between you and me is that I could fix it myself.
You can swap it for a reconditioned model, much cheaper that buying a new one.
Getting it repaired would take time and render your car immobile.
Phone around to get a good quote, in the UK i'd expect to pay 拢50-100 for a reconditioned starter.
The way you explain the noise sounds like the starter motor is spinning but the bendix is not throwing the gear out to engage with the flywheel. If you see the starter gear spin but not kick out replace the starter motor.
you need a new starter. the bendix is bad in yours.
ADDED: If you have used your powerful charger to test starters before, and this one isn't working, why are you asking the question? Get it fixed. The difference between you and me is that I could fix it myself.
You can swap it for a reconditioned model, much cheaper that buying a new one.
Getting it repaired would take time and render your car immobile.
Phone around to get a good quote, in the UK i'd expect to pay 拢50-100 for a reconditioned starter.
The way you explain the noise sounds like the starter motor is spinning but the bendix is not throwing the gear out to engage with the flywheel. If you see the starter gear spin but not kick out replace the starter motor.
you need a new starter. the bendix is bad in yours.
94 geo prizum,won't start.turn key nothing happens.ran fine day before.battery is up.?
-don't no if it is the starter or a fuse.car has a manual transmission.would like to get running for work,am taking bus.everything works,headlights,wipers,horn,but car will not turn over,nothing at all.well if u hear the click sound when turning the key to start the car then it is a starter motor problem can be fixed, but if u dont hear any clicking sound then u have a problem with the switch, try to shake the key while u r trying to start up the car this might do. but both ways u have to see an electrician. if u dont want to tow the car, have someone to push the car & start on gear :)
if it makes a click when you turn key it must be the starter. check fuse box to see if there's a blown fuse.
if it clicks while trying to start then you starter is junk
if it makes a click when you turn key it must be the starter. check fuse box to see if there's a blown fuse.
if it clicks while trying to start then you starter is junk
How do I get car wax off of black plastic trim?
-I use liquid Tire shine and a polishing rag. I spray the tire shine on the rag and rub it on the plastic trim until it looks shinney black. It works!!!take a soft bristle brush and scrub the trim. i use to detail cars and before we waxed a car we sprayed armor-all on the trim. that way when wax got on the trim it wiped right off when we took the wax off.
tooth brush
tooth brush
Does the toyota vios have a timing belt or chain?
-ChainI don't know this vehicle but most newer cars now have chains. But, whenever you have a question on what goes into your car. never hesitate to call an auto parts store to ask them what your vehicle takes.They are not going to laugh at you, They are asked these type questions every day and besides, its just part of what they do and are trained for.
What would make a serpentine belt come loose?
-My sister's 1999 Chevy Cavalier's belt came loose today. It has been crazy hot here in Ohio. She started the car and the battery warning light came on and when she opened the engine hood the belt was off completely. The car had some power steering pump work done about 2 years ago. The car has been having a rough idle.
The poor car is due to be junked next year. It has over 190,000 miles on the engine. It's still a good beater car for the time being. Once my sister receives her income tax refund she definitely getting a better car. My mechanic said that maybe the mechanic who did the work didn't reinstall the belt correctly. It's going to cost about one hundred dollars to get a new belt on the car.
The sad part of the story is that the mechanic who did the original work on the car is out of business so I can't sue him for his bad work. How long will it take to install a new belt? I know that the battery warning light came on because the alternator relies on the belt to power the engine. Did the mechanic give me a good price for the work? ThanksThe belt tensioner probably wasn't set correctly. It should be any easy fix for any shop... $100 sounds like a decent deal since any shop is going to charge you at least one hour of labor at anywhere between $70 to $100 per hour, plus the cost of the belt.
Why junk it just because of the miles? My 1998 Chevy pickup has 240,000mi and it's still chugging along. Take care of the car and it will last.Bad bearing on the idler pulley..... I knew achick who bought a second car......parking her van, over this $34 fix...
The poor car is due to be junked next year. It has over 190,000 miles on the engine. It's still a good beater car for the time being. Once my sister receives her income tax refund she definitely getting a better car. My mechanic said that maybe the mechanic who did the work didn't reinstall the belt correctly. It's going to cost about one hundred dollars to get a new belt on the car.
The sad part of the story is that the mechanic who did the original work on the car is out of business so I can't sue him for his bad work. How long will it take to install a new belt? I know that the battery warning light came on because the alternator relies on the belt to power the engine. Did the mechanic give me a good price for the work? ThanksThe belt tensioner probably wasn't set correctly. It should be any easy fix for any shop... $100 sounds like a decent deal since any shop is going to charge you at least one hour of labor at anywhere between $70 to $100 per hour, plus the cost of the belt.
Why junk it just because of the miles? My 1998 Chevy pickup has 240,000mi and it's still chugging along. Take care of the car and it will last.Bad bearing on the idler pulley..... I knew achick who bought a second car......parking her van, over this $34 fix...
How much does failing a smog check take away from the value of a car?
-I have a 1996 nissan that according to kbb.com is worth about $2300, but I have just failed my second smog check. I am wondering, how much would this car be worth now, since it has 2 failed smog checks in its history?i think would take away a lot.
Also KBB is not a good source for values , they are ALWAYS to high.
if you want to get a more realistic value go to " edmunds.com" to apprase your car.
But no smog will cost you plenty unless you selll it to someone that is clueless about such things.to a buyer everything would you buy a car for 2300 that may cost thousands to fix
Also KBB is not a good source for values , they are ALWAYS to high.
if you want to get a more realistic value go to " edmunds.com" to apprase your car.
But no smog will cost you plenty unless you selll it to someone that is clueless about such things.to a buyer everything would you buy a car for 2300 that may cost thousands to fix
How much does it cost to fix a rearview mirror that has a crack in the mirror?
-Hi, so I am an idiot. I was going to drive my car and when I went to sit in it I had to adjust the rearview mirror in it. When I moved it a little it fell, and now their is a wonderful crack across the mirror. I have been looking on google and trying to find out information on how to fix it. But some webs say I have to replace the whole thing which will cost more than two hundred dollars.....if I get it from honda( which is my dealership) . But can the mirror be replaced or the whole thing gotta go...and what is the cheaper way to get it fixed? I am open to anything...There are a couple of ways of going about it, the cheapest option is to get a clip on mirror. You put the cracked mirror back on, and you can use a mirror that clips on over the existing mirror. Here's a quick example one I got from a Google search:
http://www.amazon.com/RG22-Black-Frame-A鈥?/a>
If you look around you can easily find one for less then $10. These work very well, but look tacky, and it is clear that it is not the original.
You can go to a junkyard, and buy the mirror, and they will give it to you for a low price, and it will be the exact same mirror, but for a lot less then a dealer. A lot of junkyards list there products on ebay as well, so you could check out eBay as well. I did a quick search, and I saw a lot of rear view mirrors for different cars going for under $30.
Lastly, you can by a luxurious generic rear view mirror, I have an '06 Saab 9-5, and that came with auto-dimming mirrors, so when your driving at night, it will dim by itself, so the headlights of the car behind you don't shine in your eyes. It has multiple light sensors, so it will dim it to the point where you can clearly see the car behind you, but the headlights won't hurt your eyes. There are generic auto dimming mirrors available that fit a lot of cars, here's a quick example:
http://www.amazon.com/Gentex-GENK2a-auto鈥?/a>
There are very cheap generic rear view mirrors as well, but the original is of better quality, and is usually not much more on eBay or a junkyard.
http://www.amazon.com/Gentex-GENK2a-auto鈥?/a>Really simple,just visit your local junkyard...You can get mirrors and other minor car parts pretty cheap.....You can install the mirror by yourself also...it's pretty self explanatory...If your not feeling confident installing it,I suggest asking a friend who has Experience working with cars.....
just go to autozone or parts store buy a mirrior kit and place it on old mirrior. as long as its just cracked and not shattered it will work fine
http://www.amazon.com/RG22-Black-Frame-A鈥?/a>
If you look around you can easily find one for less then $10. These work very well, but look tacky, and it is clear that it is not the original.
You can go to a junkyard, and buy the mirror, and they will give it to you for a low price, and it will be the exact same mirror, but for a lot less then a dealer. A lot of junkyards list there products on ebay as well, so you could check out eBay as well. I did a quick search, and I saw a lot of rear view mirrors for different cars going for under $30.
Lastly, you can by a luxurious generic rear view mirror, I have an '06 Saab 9-5, and that came with auto-dimming mirrors, so when your driving at night, it will dim by itself, so the headlights of the car behind you don't shine in your eyes. It has multiple light sensors, so it will dim it to the point where you can clearly see the car behind you, but the headlights won't hurt your eyes. There are generic auto dimming mirrors available that fit a lot of cars, here's a quick example:
http://www.amazon.com/Gentex-GENK2a-auto鈥?/a>
There are very cheap generic rear view mirrors as well, but the original is of better quality, and is usually not much more on eBay or a junkyard.
http://www.amazon.com/Gentex-GENK2a-auto鈥?/a>Really simple,just visit your local junkyard...You can get mirrors and other minor car parts pretty cheap.....You can install the mirror by yourself also...it's pretty self explanatory...If your not feeling confident installing it,I suggest asking a friend who has Experience working with cars.....
just go to autozone or parts store buy a mirrior kit and place it on old mirrior. as long as its just cracked and not shattered it will work fine
How do I remove paint from rims?
-I was looking to buy a car, but the rims have been painted a nasty gold color. I want to change the gold to black. I was wondering if it would be better to remove the gold paint and start fresh or if I could just paint black over the gold. If need be I can go to shop to get it done, I just want to know if there is an easy way to do it on my own.
Thanks in advance.Take off the tires, use aircraft stripper (READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) and get them powdercoated black.
DO NOT just paint them, get them powdercoated properly.
Thanks in advance.Take off the tires, use aircraft stripper (READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) and get them powdercoated black.
DO NOT just paint them, get them powdercoated properly.
Car beeping sound when hit gas?
-my car is an infiniti qx4 1997 . some time it have a sound like a running fan .. the more i hit the gas the sound get loader ...but i stop after 5-10min .sometime the sound come back...and another question is .. ( i go to the body shop . they check the electric wire and not enough power to go thru ..
and how 铆m fix it ? thank sproblem could be the electric fuel pump that is in the tank..
and how 铆m fix it ? thank sproblem could be the electric fuel pump that is in the tank..
Do you get better mileage with a stick shift?
-would you get better gas mileage with a manual transmission and knew how to use it or in a automatic transmissionHistorically, automatic transmissions couldn't compete for fuel efficiency. However, recently, they've become *very* close.That is true 5 years ago, but with all the latest improvements in automatics such 6-8 speeds being standard, dual clutch. It isn't so true anymore (they also shift 1/10 of a second, faster than a person cn shift a standard). Though those transmissions are mostly available to luxury vehicles or high performance vehicles, so it isn't so main stream yet.
You may be able to get slightly better mileage with a stick over an automatic.
Guess it's really more a matter of preference, since the mileage won't vary that much either way.
You'd need to decide which you would rather have. Figure out your own pros and cons based on what's most important to you.
Agreed. Yes you can get better mileage with a standard
NO!!!! IT ALL DEPENDS ON ENGINE SIZE. MOST MANUAL TRANS VEHICLES HAVE SMALL ENGINE
You may be able to get slightly better mileage with a stick over an automatic.
Guess it's really more a matter of preference, since the mileage won't vary that much either way.
You'd need to decide which you would rather have. Figure out your own pros and cons based on what's most important to you.
Agreed. Yes you can get better mileage with a standard
NO!!!! IT ALL DEPENDS ON ENGINE SIZE. MOST MANUAL TRANS VEHICLES HAVE SMALL ENGINE
How much does it cost to repair a broken timing belt?
-I have a 2000 Saturn (LW Series) with a broken timing belt. Would anyone know how much it would cost to have it repaired? The car will not start. A friend took a look at it and confirmed the timing belt was broken. It has been sitting in the garage ever since.You can estimate a cost of at least $250 for replacing the timing belt.Consider a replacement when nearing the given time and at a routine service to reduce added labour costs.If the average price of replacement in your area is $300 to $350, your mechanic should charge you a price within that range; if not, continue to shop around until you find a mechanic that you are both comfortable with and provides you a reasonable price for timing belt replacement.
Timing belts are usually replaced at a certain mileage or time (whichever comes first). If you are lucky you didn't bend any valves during timing belt failure. Belt should cost under $100 and labour probably $500 or more.
A friend has a saturn SL. My replacements and repairs on the timing belt cost me $60, shop cost. It's quite cheap but reliable.
speed when it blew - 70 mph 1000.00
Timing belts are usually replaced at a certain mileage or time (whichever comes first). If you are lucky you didn't bend any valves during timing belt failure. Belt should cost under $100 and labour probably $500 or more.
A friend has a saturn SL. My replacements and repairs on the timing belt cost me $60, shop cost. It's quite cheap but reliable.
speed when it blew - 70 mph 1000.00
Transmission shift problem?
-92 dodge spirit 3.0 ltr shifts perfectly and then sometimes will downshift into 2nd while at 40mph or less. I have to pull off the road turn engine off and restart and then it is okay, at least most of the time. Also sitting at astop light sometimes the kind of kicks as if trying to find another gear and when I take off it is nce again in second gear and won't shift up or down.
I Need Help With AC Problem?
-I just did my first ac charge. My only question is why is my vent temp only 65F when it is 90F outside. I've read that it should be at 40F. The system was completely empty and I put in 8oz of Retrofit Oil and 24oz of R134a but couldn't get the cans to fully empty so I guess I only have about 20oz the car calls for 34oz of R12. Could that be what my problem is? I didn't pull a vacuum on system. Should I go ahead and buy another can of R134a.
Oh yea the sight glass has a couple of big bubbles moving around, should their be any bubbles.well two things, one you should have drawn the system down to get all the moisture out and air,thats why it isnt loading all the refridgerant, and now you have to do it over again or live with it, that air and moisture is taking up room where the refridgerant goes, OH MY!, . second an r12 system on an older car dosent usually cool as well with 134 in it, it wasnt designed for it and the evap core isnt as big on a newer models i beileive it is,or condenser anyways, and you might have to install and aux electric fan to move enough air acroos to make it lower the temp more, i went to a junk yard and fouind one off another car and hooked it to the ac switch to turn on when i turned n the ac, ,you probably dont have a draw down unit and its hard to do without it, if its blowing cool your doing good, for the mistakes you made, not being smart , that moisture in there will freeze up and slow the system down, from cooling, call a rental palce and see if you can rent one, if you lived in tampa id let you come over and use mine,
Oh yea the sight glass has a couple of big bubbles moving around, should their be any bubbles.well two things, one you should have drawn the system down to get all the moisture out and air,thats why it isnt loading all the refridgerant, and now you have to do it over again or live with it, that air and moisture is taking up room where the refridgerant goes, OH MY!, . second an r12 system on an older car dosent usually cool as well with 134 in it, it wasnt designed for it and the evap core isnt as big on a newer models i beileive it is,or condenser anyways, and you might have to install and aux electric fan to move enough air acroos to make it lower the temp more, i went to a junk yard and fouind one off another car and hooked it to the ac switch to turn on when i turned n the ac, ,you probably dont have a draw down unit and its hard to do without it, if its blowing cool your doing good, for the mistakes you made, not being smart , that moisture in there will freeze up and slow the system down, from cooling, call a rental palce and see if you can rent one, if you lived in tampa id let you come over and use mine,
I broke a timing belt, Nissan 1993?
-I was on the highway doing about 60mph, and the timing belt broke. It made a quick high pitch and then then motor stopped, I moved to side of the freeway, and turn the key, all the belts turned but it was not turning over, didnt sound like nothing was hitting from the starter, just a winding sound, did I destroy it do you think?Without knowing the model of your car, or the engine size, I can't advise you.
I'm attaching a link to the Gates Rubber web site. On this site you can enter your vehicle information and determine if you have an interference engine or not.
If you do have an interference engine, it's quite possible that the engine was damaged when the timing belt broke.
Best of luck.
it did,nt turn over or it did,nt start? you could have bent the valves the reason it did,nt turn over or started.
I'm attaching a link to the Gates Rubber web site. On this site you can enter your vehicle information and determine if you have an interference engine or not.
If you do have an interference engine, it's quite possible that the engine was damaged when the timing belt broke.
Best of luck.
it did,nt turn over or it did,nt start? you could have bent the valves the reason it did,nt turn over or started.
I have a question for you mechanics?
-any of you mechanics know weather a vacuum leak can cause the check engine light to come on. i have a 1988 oldsmobile delta 88, 3800 v6 and the check engine light came on the other day when i kicked it down in passing gear to get around a big truck and it,s been on every since.i ran a test on it and it keeps coming up 13 and 14 which is the 02 sensor and the coolant sensor. i unhooked the battery and changed both of them but it still stays on. i checked all the other sensors too. it will start up and sit there and run good but the light stays on. on the road it seems like it has a lean burn. i pulled the plugs and they are all burning good but there is a slight miss to it idling. i can get a computer for it but everyone i talk to say if it was the computer i would have worse problems. it did,nt happen until i kicked it down. would it be possibly be the fuel regulator on the fuel rail? the transmission works good like a new transmission, no smoke coming out the tailpipe, the tailpipe is clean, no gas in the oil and my anti-freeze looks good and it stays full. i,am going to check for any vacuum leaks tomorrow. i appreciate any help you can give me. i worked on several cars but i,am not too good when it comes to these computers. thanks guys !I think you are on the right track-13 years old car has brittle vacuum lines-breaks let in air and makes the computer wonky-to help you find leaks-spray wd40 on the lines-when engine runs/sounds better probably found bad lineon an 88, no. it is an obd1 system that is only looking for opens and shorts in the electrical systems. a vacuum leak is beyond the ability of that computer.
If it,s a slight miss,pull one spark plug wire ate a time & find out witch cylinder it is.Might be plug wire.If it,s 2 cylinders it might be a week coil pack.Clear codes.Miss-fire should show up,or something else.Do you have 2 O2 sensors?up date what u find!
You should prolly jack up the radiator cap and slide a whole new car under it.
If it,s a slight miss,pull one spark plug wire ate a time & find out witch cylinder it is.Might be plug wire.If it,s 2 cylinders it might be a week coil pack.Clear codes.Miss-fire should show up,or something else.Do you have 2 O2 sensors?up date what u find!
You should prolly jack up the radiator cap and slide a whole new car under it.
Is the car dealer responsible to make sure brake and signal lights work?
-I live in California, I bought a 1995 Chevy Suburban 1 week ago. I realized the next day that the driver side brake light and signal do not work, the reverse light and tail light works, just not the signal or brake. I need to know if the dealership is responsible for this repair. The vehicle unfortunately was purchased "As Is". I have replaced fuses and bulbs, still not workingno it's your job to check it...his job is to trick you into buying the car
You bought it as is. its now your problem.
You bought it as is. its now your problem.
Can an aftermarket turbo on my mitsubishi triton 4x4 damage my gearbox?
-if it is a straight switch with one that is the same spec's as your turbo you should be fine .if you are putting a larger cap. turbo to get more boost to get more power you have got to remember you will be messing with fuel and air ratio .you will have to get into your fuel management also . to much power could blow your tran. or engine . to much boost and not enough fuel it will not run as fast as it does nowThe extra acceleration can wear or overheat it, but seeing as its (probably) diesel ? its not going to be THAT much faster is it?
Unless your talking about ALOT more power than factory, the factory transmission should be up to the task, depending on how you treat it.
Too much torque or hp for it to handle. Where as in the past, transmissions were capible of handleing much more power. Most newer transmissions are desingned to handle not much more than what the factory horsepower is. This is what happens when you let accountants run the world.
has very little to do with it has a lot to do with how you drive
Unless your talking about ALOT more power than factory, the factory transmission should be up to the task, depending on how you treat it.
Too much torque or hp for it to handle. Where as in the past, transmissions were capible of handleing much more power. Most newer transmissions are desingned to handle not much more than what the factory horsepower is. This is what happens when you let accountants run the world.
has very little to do with it has a lot to do with how you drive
Which product is better for Aluminum rims Meguir's or Mother's? ?
-Do you Polish them right after you use the wheel cleaner?personally mothers
Wont go into reverse gear but will go into all other gears?
-i try to put my car into reverse and it wont go, but it goes into all other five gears. It just started this todayif it is manual(stick shift) sometimes reverse gear teeth meet each other edge to edge and will not mesh-put in 1st and move car slightly and then go to reverse-could also possibly be that the clutch is not totally releasing when being depressed-have your mechanic check the clutch(just checking not expensive)
could be ur sick or it could be the gear id take it to a shop before it get stuck into gear.
usually that's a sign that the transmission is going out and needs rebuilt.
could be ur sick or it could be the gear id take it to a shop before it get stuck into gear.
usually that's a sign that the transmission is going out and needs rebuilt.
Serious car overheating problem?
-My car starts fine, but after about 5 minutes of running normally the temperature gage goes from the bottom to halfway, stays there for about a minute or two, then slowly rises to above the heat line and the car says it is overheating.
This problem started after I changed a top radiator hose, but I'm positive I did it properly and it isn't leaking fluid anywhere.
The car's oil and coolant levels are both normal so that isn't the cause of this problem.
There are no other symptoms, the car isn't ejecting any smoke from the exhaust or anything like that..
Thanks in advance.check the rad reserve tank, and fill to recommended level.
hopefully any air in the system will gurgle its way out.
My windstar requires that the thermostat "jiggle valve" be positioned properly.
Valve at top.
...you may be able to bleed air, at the coolant temp sensor.
Your problem may be as simple as having some air in your cooling system.
See link to fix problem:
the coolant is not flowing through the system check hose while the car is running if it feels hard you may have a blocked radiator or a stuck thermostat good luck
if in miami please contact:
cmavares145@gmail.com
.
First confirm that the engine is actually overheating, no heat inside, etc. Sometimes, a temperature sensor will fail and give a false reading on the indicator of overheating. For this question, at times, the meter may fail and give the same reading misleading. Make sure the fan turns on when the engine temperature begins to rise above normal. If you do not check the fan fuse, fan relay, fan sensor, the fan. Real Overheating is caused by lack of coolant and / or lack of refrigerant. Modern refrigeration systems are "closed". In other words, there should be little or no loss of coolant. If the level is too low, you have a leak .... external or internal. With the coolant at the top to the right level and the radiator cap, start the engine and check for visible leaks ... pipes, valves, internal radiator leak, for example. Head gasket is usually accompanied by white exhaust smoke, hard starting, running hard and bubbles in the expansion tank.
Sometimes, but not always, is the engine oil has a milky appearance and / or engine oil is mixed with the coolant.
This problem started after I changed a top radiator hose, but I'm positive I did it properly and it isn't leaking fluid anywhere.
The car's oil and coolant levels are both normal so that isn't the cause of this problem.
There are no other symptoms, the car isn't ejecting any smoke from the exhaust or anything like that..
Thanks in advance.check the rad reserve tank, and fill to recommended level.
hopefully any air in the system will gurgle its way out.
My windstar requires that the thermostat "jiggle valve" be positioned properly.
Valve at top.
...you may be able to bleed air, at the coolant temp sensor.
Your problem may be as simple as having some air in your cooling system.
See link to fix problem:
the coolant is not flowing through the system check hose while the car is running if it feels hard you may have a blocked radiator or a stuck thermostat good luck
if in miami please contact:
cmavares145@gmail.com
.
First confirm that the engine is actually overheating, no heat inside, etc. Sometimes, a temperature sensor will fail and give a false reading on the indicator of overheating. For this question, at times, the meter may fail and give the same reading misleading. Make sure the fan turns on when the engine temperature begins to rise above normal. If you do not check the fan fuse, fan relay, fan sensor, the fan. Real Overheating is caused by lack of coolant and / or lack of refrigerant. Modern refrigeration systems are "closed". In other words, there should be little or no loss of coolant. If the level is too low, you have a leak .... external or internal. With the coolant at the top to the right level and the radiator cap, start the engine and check for visible leaks ... pipes, valves, internal radiator leak, for example. Head gasket is usually accompanied by white exhaust smoke, hard starting, running hard and bubbles in the expansion tank.
Sometimes, but not always, is the engine oil has a milky appearance and / or engine oil is mixed with the coolant.
Why or what is causing my gas meter to start off full and then go to empty?
-if i read my gage right i only have a 5 to 8 gallon tank in my 1997 mercury tracer. no leaks in the fuel system but the gage shows a quater of a tank and when i fill it up it takes 5 gallons to 6 but its rated for a 12.7 gallon tankhave it checked out. your gage must be broken
What adapter do I need to run a 12v B&D auto vac inside the home?
-I have the Black & Decker PAV1200w Pivoting Nose Auto Vacuum and it comes with a 16 ft car cigarette lighter plug. I know there are adapters such as ones Amazon suggests to buy with it, but the reviews say it's only got enough power output to power say, a cellphone charger, not a 12v vacuum. I was looking on Amazon at a Wagan 5amp AC to 12v DC power adapter for about $18.00. I don't want to spend almost half the price I paid for the vac if it's not going to work though. Thanks for your time and help.Hi
A battery charger will do the trick.
A battery charger will do the trick.
Where can I buy replacement seat bolts?
-I have one bolt that has hard to break loose and it got stripped from the socket slipping off it multiple times. I got it out but want to buy a new bolt. Where can I buy a new one from. It is a 2000 Chevy Silverado.most likely a dealer for the real bolt, napa carries tons of bolts but most sales counter guys dont want to fool with them, i buy all of mine from an ace hardware off the nut an screw aisle,they have screw guages and differnet grades of hardness you probably want a grade 8 for that for the shear strength if you in an accident you dont want it to shear loose, the factory one has a flared type head or built in flat washer, just buy a flat washer or lock washer sometimes i stack a flat first and then a lock,depending on the need,
Boltdepot.com
I usually have the stuff the next day if I order before 3PM. They're a lot higher quality than you'll get at most stores.
Boltdepot.com
I usually have the stuff the next day if I order before 3PM. They're a lot higher quality than you'll get at most stores.
How to separate lower ball joint from control arm?
-I have a 96 ford taurus that we are trying to replace the drivers side lower ball joint on but it will not seperate from the control arm we have tried everything we can think of from pb blaster, a sledge hammer and air hammer and a pickle fork but it will not come out i think the reason the pickle fork wouldnt work is that there is so much play in the ball joint that all it does when using the pickle fork is flex dont know what else to try but to remove the control arm with the ball joint and take it in but who knows how hard that will be and my boyfreind has lost his patience so any suggestions would be helpful P.S we dont have a torch so we cant use thatyou did take the nut off did,nt you? place a jack under the control arm and take a big bar and lift up on the ball joint while someone pounds the pickle fork between the ball joint and control arm.
You will need to borrow a ball joint separator. This tool puts a lot of gradual force on the ball joint to separate it.
You've already wrecked the assembly by mushrooming the steel with a sledgehammer. Take it to a front end shop before you do more damage or kill yourself.
Just did this on a 99. Both ball joints where impossible to remove and I have all the right tools. Finally cut through the control arm and into the ball joint stud with a cut off wheel. That went really fast. Then I replaced the ball joint AND the control arm. You can pick up a Dorman control arm on amazon for about $60. That's half the price of a Moog. So when you're done, you'll have a stiffer ride due to the new control arm bushings and new ball joints. The only other way to do it is to remove the entire steering knuckle and the control arm and take it to a shop to press it out. I think that's more work than just replacing the control arm. BTW, I had to lower the engine cradle to get the control arm out on the passenger side. On the drivers side I also had to remove the transmission mount and jack up the tranny to get the front control arm bolt out.
You will need to borrow a ball joint separator. This tool puts a lot of gradual force on the ball joint to separate it.
You've already wrecked the assembly by mushrooming the steel with a sledgehammer. Take it to a front end shop before you do more damage or kill yourself.
Just did this on a 99. Both ball joints where impossible to remove and I have all the right tools. Finally cut through the control arm and into the ball joint stud with a cut off wheel. That went really fast. Then I replaced the ball joint AND the control arm. You can pick up a Dorman control arm on amazon for about $60. That's half the price of a Moog. So when you're done, you'll have a stiffer ride due to the new control arm bushings and new ball joints. The only other way to do it is to remove the entire steering knuckle and the control arm and take it to a shop to press it out. I think that's more work than just replacing the control arm. BTW, I had to lower the engine cradle to get the control arm out on the passenger side. On the drivers side I also had to remove the transmission mount and jack up the tranny to get the front control arm bolt out.
Lpg fueled welding torch?
-i'm an amateur when it come to oxy-fuel welding and i've put together a torching kit with a
USED:
1) harris brand cutting torch and handle (it was second hand so it's hard to tell the exact part number)
2) harris two stage 92-15 acetylene regulator
3) harris cutting tip 6290 (for propane and natural gas),
NEW:
4) and new generic brand oxy/fuel hose
5) pair of flashback arrestors (forgot the brand)
i'm not really looking to cut thick sheets of steel or anything that requires advance skills. just to heat up a few things (to bend them and stuff).
the only fuel source that i have that doesn't need special adapter are a tank of lpg. when the lpg tank's valve is on max, the first gauge indicates around 100 psi.
then when i completely open the regulator and torch valves the flame that come out is nothing like cone-shaped cutting torch flame. at best it's just got a bluish area right out of the tip, then spreads out like a big red fire. my first guess is i probably shouldn't be using a propane cutting tip, but somehow, i think it must be something else.Nope, you still MUST have oxygen mixed with it.
If you are just using LPG (propane) then you should have went to wal mart and bought you a $15 plumber's propane torch thats used to melt silver solder for joining copper pipes together.
Thats all the heat you will get from just LPG... The extra heat, the cone flame and the power to heat metal to a glowing red so it can be bent is done with fuel (acetylene or propane) for the basic fire, then add in oxygen to make fire hotter.
Next, your fuel pressure is too high. Run acetylene at NO higher than 6 psi, LPG at no more than 10 psi.
The oxygen you turn up to 30-45 psi depending on what you are heating, cutting, etc
Then you open the fuel valve on torch handle, light the torch and adjust till smoke goes away... The fire will be a red-ish orange...Then you open the oxygen valve on torch, the flame will turn blue-ish white...and adjust till you get your cone.
You need 1 torch handle, torch tips/rosebid or cutting end
1 fuel gauge and reg.
1 oxygen gauge and reg.
Twin hose (red and green)
1 fuel bottlw
1 oxygen bottle
USED:
1) harris brand cutting torch and handle (it was second hand so it's hard to tell the exact part number)
2) harris two stage 92-15 acetylene regulator
3) harris cutting tip 6290 (for propane and natural gas),
NEW:
4) and new generic brand oxy/fuel hose
5) pair of flashback arrestors (forgot the brand)
i'm not really looking to cut thick sheets of steel or anything that requires advance skills. just to heat up a few things (to bend them and stuff).
the only fuel source that i have that doesn't need special adapter are a tank of lpg. when the lpg tank's valve is on max, the first gauge indicates around 100 psi.
then when i completely open the regulator and torch valves the flame that come out is nothing like cone-shaped cutting torch flame. at best it's just got a bluish area right out of the tip, then spreads out like a big red fire. my first guess is i probably shouldn't be using a propane cutting tip, but somehow, i think it must be something else.Nope, you still MUST have oxygen mixed with it.
If you are just using LPG (propane) then you should have went to wal mart and bought you a $15 plumber's propane torch thats used to melt silver solder for joining copper pipes together.
Thats all the heat you will get from just LPG... The extra heat, the cone flame and the power to heat metal to a glowing red so it can be bent is done with fuel (acetylene or propane) for the basic fire, then add in oxygen to make fire hotter.
Next, your fuel pressure is too high. Run acetylene at NO higher than 6 psi, LPG at no more than 10 psi.
The oxygen you turn up to 30-45 psi depending on what you are heating, cutting, etc
Then you open the fuel valve on torch handle, light the torch and adjust till smoke goes away... The fire will be a red-ish orange...Then you open the oxygen valve on torch, the flame will turn blue-ish white...and adjust till you get your cone.
You need 1 torch handle, torch tips/rosebid or cutting end
1 fuel gauge and reg.
1 oxygen gauge and reg.
Twin hose (red and green)
1 fuel bottlw
1 oxygen bottle
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